Standpipe Ops

[M1NFD]

I was wondering what the S.O.P. is in various departments regarding standpipes, and what the recommended pressure to support them is?
Thanks
Eric

[UTFFEMT]

:rolleyes: My current department says 150 PSI regardless.

I like my last employer who was

100-Nothing showing
150 Smoke showing

This way you protect your self from accidentally setting off a sprinkler head and causing water damage over a alarm malfunction. :D

[ADSNWFLD]

A sprinkler is pumped at 150.
For a standpipe:
FL: 25 psi in the standpipe
FL in hose from pumper to building FDC
FL in hose on the firefloor Nozzle pressure for the type of nozzle used.
Elevation loss 5 per floor

Remember to remove any pressure reducing devices.

[raricciuti]

150 psi is a good starting point. We generally reverse from the siamese to the hydrant - putting the engine on the hydrant allows you to get the most from your water system. For short lays (under about 250 feet), we will run a 3-1/2" line in tandem with either a 2-1/2" or 3" line. Suggest plugging into both sides of the siamese before charging them up, in case the clapper is screwed up - if it doesn't seal when you charge the first line, you're gonna be hard pressed to connect the second line with water blowing out of the swivel. For longer lays, we drop a distributor and two sections of 2-1/2 or 3-1/2" hose, and lay a 5" to the water source. Also, a little tip if you have problems with vandalism to your siamese connections - if you can't plug into the siamese, take a 2-1/2" double female, and connect to the 1st floor standpipe discharge. You "pump in the out door" - this works as long as there aren't any PRV's (pressure reducing valves) installed on the system. One other note - you need to be aware of where the standpipe/sprinkler systems get their water supply from. At the "big one", you want to get your water from a remote source (especially for sprinklers) - stealing water from the sprinkler system to supply the standpipe is a bad idea!

If your question includes standpipe ops inside the building, most sources recommend hooking up to the standpipe one floor below the fire, stretch your line up the stairs past the fire floor, then loop back down to the fire floor. This allows you to move relatively easily onto the fire floor, as pulling your attack line down the stairs is a wee bit easier than trying to drag it up from the floor below. A gated wye is strongly recommended, as it gives you the option of a second line if needed. You should always have a couple of door wedges (watch that the uncharged hose doesn't become stuck under an open door), a spanner wrench (caps can be very tight to preclude theft), small pipe wrench (missing handwheels - theft again), and a short length of rope or webbing (to tie off hose, help handle large lines, and/or control doors when forcing them open). As to hose size, that will be your department's call. Some places use 1-1/2" or 1-3/4", some don't use anything less than a 2-1/2" for initial attack. You have to decide based on the size and type of buildings, the fire load, and available manpower. Hope this helps! Be careful out there...

[ 10-05-2001: Message edited by: raricciuti ]