1. #1
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    Default Recs for Chain replacement (saw)

    I am looking for recs and sources for replacement chain for ventmaster saw. Also looking for saw recs, chain and rotary for RIT truck company.

    Thanks

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    What do you mean by "recs"?????
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    My guess would be recomendations.
    IACOJ
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    Here is a reply I gave in a similar thread asking about saw preferences. We run the following which is my preference.........

    - Partner K950A with the "Warthog" blade. Used for opening roofs of commercial buildings or simular situations.

    - Cutters Edge Chainsaw is used as our first-out vent saw for most applications. Hands down the best tool out there (chain or circ saw) for opening roofs.

    - Another Partner K950A is set up for metal cutting (security bars, metal doors, etc.)

    - We also have a Stihl TS400....makes a great boat anchor, wheel chock, also good to use as a weight for hot air balloons, etc.
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    Funny, A Stihl boat anchor... That sounds familiar. A good friend of mine who works for Stihl wasn't real happy then I told him I'd take a Husqvarna over anything he made.

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    How do the fire service brands perform compared to the Stihl? Or Husky. All we have ever had is a Stihl that we bought a few years ago, so I have no basis of comparison. The Stihl seems to work OK but ony gets used a couple times a year.

    Couldn't/can't afford a $1500 saw unless on a fire grant.
    Last edited by neiowa; 02-19-2009 at 10:32 AM.

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    Please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the Cutter's Edge motors/bodies are from Huskqvarna. I seem to remember seeing one of their tags on the case of the couple we've got. We spent $500 or so on a Husky tree saw last year, it works great. naturally, I think that most of us will agree that you get what you pay for. If you buy a $150 Craftsman or Homelight, it's not going to last the way a commercial saw is going to.

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    CE are Jonsereds. Modified. I've had good luck with red saws. T.C,

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    Quote Originally Posted by neiowa View Post
    How do the fire service brands perform compared to the Stihl? Or Husky. All we have ever had is a Stihl that we bought a few years ago, so I have no basis of comparison. The Stihl seems to work OK but ony gets used a couple times a year.

    Couldn't/can't afford a $1500 saw unless on a fire grant.
    alot of fire dept chainsaws are re branded huskies. They sell Univent saws that are husky 372's. ive also seen alot of other saws that are re branded huskies. Although No one re brands stihl , so anything that looks like a stihl but dosent have a the sticker, isnt.
    We use Efco's at our station, but i would love to see that saw tossed into the fire one of these days. It never starts because no one ever changes the gas, and it cuts very slowly. We also have a stihl cut off saw thats about in the same condition. Although i cant blame it, its got to be almost 20 years old.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue101 View Post
    CE are Jonsereds. Modified. I've had good luck with red saws. T.C,
    And the CE rotary saws are Shindaiwa....

    Don

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    Quote Originally Posted by neiowa View Post
    How do the fire service brands perform compared to the Stihl? Or Husky. All we have ever had is a Stihl that we bought a few years ago, so I have no basis of comparison. The Stihl seems to work OK but ony gets used a couple times a year.

    Couldn't/can't afford a $1500 saw unless on a fire grant.
    Some general notes about saws, gathered from research that I did about 15 years ago.

    -At that time, we were running a Stihl 038 Magnum chainsaw as our roof saw. An 038 Magnum comes stock out of the box (been a long time, but I think I remember) with a 22" bar. It is a pretty beefy saw, not exactly a "harry homeowner cut the branches on weekends" kind of a saw.

    One of our mutual aid companies talked us into buying it, but putting a 12" bar on it, with a carbide-tipped chain. So we did exactly that. But then we noticed that after every time we used it on a fire, more and more teeth came off. We wrote it off to the chain itself and/or our inexperience with the saw (we thought that maybe twisting the saw while it was cutting may have done it.....I dont know it sounded good at the time....)

    So then we bought a new chain- at about $100 bucks (carbide-tipped, remember????) And again, noticed that teeth were coming off every time we cut a roof. And soon enough we had to buy a new chain. Then someone came up with the bright idea of just running a normal chain. That didnt work too well......Anytime you took a bite out of a roof, it would bind up and stall the saw out, or gunk would build up inside the clutch cover.

    So back to the carbide chain. And mo money mo money mo money.

    I started making phone calls. First to Stihl, then to (can't remember, I think it was Oregon) the Mfr. of the chain/bar.

    Between the two companies, I found out that the 038 Magnum did not have enough horsepower to spin a carbide chain fast enough for it to work effectively. It needed a chain speed of (again, cant remember the specifics) xxxxxx feet per second. Carbide chains like to go real fast, especially when they hit roofing nails and asphalt shingles. Both Oregon and Stihl suspected that we were loosing teeth when the chain bounced off of nails.

    The normal chain was binding up due to the fact that it was not designed to cut anything but wood. As a normal chain bites into asphalt shingles, it is the equivalent of cutting layers of sandpaper. Dulls the teeth to the point that they loose their slicing ability and makes it work almost like "filing" through the roof- the ensuing sawdust, combined with the chain oil, made it form a "gunk" inside the clutch case.

    At the time, Oregon had just come out with a new chain manufactured specifically for the fire service. The carbide teeth had a different angle cut in them, which allowed for slower-speed saws to go through nails without "bouncing." The Oregon rep sent me a free chain, all I had to do was let him know how it was doing. I agreed of course. In due time I was able to tell him that it was working somewhat better than the other chain, however was still occasionally throwing teeth.

    The ultimate fix-all was to buy a larger saw with a greater horsepower. This is when the Echo Quickvents first became real popular, however several years prior to this, I worked in the lawn and garden repair field. I had an intimate knowledge of how Echo dealt with warranty claims and put a quick nix to that (not to mention the fact that several mutual aid companies who owned them gave bad feedback.)

    So in a few years, we finally purchased two Cutters Edge units. I was under the impression that they had Husqy guts, but I could be wrong. Whichever guts it has, I dont care because the damn things are unstoppable. We have had few if any problems with thrown teeth, and the things just cut and cut and cut.

    I have nothing against Stihl chainsaws. They make a very good unit as far as I am concerned, that 038 Magnum lasted us well into 10 to 12 years before we retired it. We currently carry a smaller Stihl on both our first out engine as well as the Special Service Unit. They are strictly for trees and such.

    Now, Stihl circular saws, thats a different subject. We have a Stihl TS400 Circular, and when I said "Boat Anchor" I meant exactly that- the damn thing is heavier than the USS Enterprise's anchor. Takes forever to warm up, and is just too big and bulky in my opinion.

    Take a Stihl TS400, and a Partner K950A, lay them down next to one another, and note the difference. The Partner is physically smaller, lighter, but has more horses. Less bulky, makes it easier to carry to a roof going up a ground ladder. And when you put a "warthog" blade on it, the damn thing becomes SATANS SAW. You have to be careful when using this blade, it causes the saw to jump a lot, and will scare someone who is not used tousing saws daily, but it will cut through practically any roof construction you throw at it.

    So getting back to the original question, when considering chainsaws, yes, I believe the fire service brands do much better. They were designed for the environments (example, CE saws have larger intakes, with larger air filters, due to being in smoky environments....) Can you get by with a good quality "stock" saw? Yes. We did. But it will either require lots of money for carbide chains, or lots of maintenance to break it down and clean it after every use.

    Hope this helps.
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    One other thing- Someone mentioned "if our saw starts because no one changed the gas."

    This is totally unacceptable.

    If I have said it once, I have said it a thousand times- anyone (with the exception of a big city fire department who uses their saws on an almost daily basis and regularly burns through gas) who does not run a fuel stabilizer (such as STA-BIL or an equal product) is just asking for trouble. The above statement is a **** poor attitude. I dont mean to call out the poster, but the statement tells me that they don't do regular equipment checks on top of not using a stabilizer. If they do regular checks (pull that saw off the rig, start it and RUN it once a week for at least 10-15 minutes or until it reaches it's operating temperature) the above statement would not come into play. Bad fuel is not an excuse in my book. A 2 quart bottle of STA-BIL (which is WAY more than any slow volly company will ever use in a year) only costs about $8.00.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWDbuff View Post
    One other thing- Someone mentioned "if our saw starts because no one changed the gas."

    This is totally unacceptable.

    If I have said it once, I have said it a thousand times- anyone (with the exception of a big city fire department who uses their saws on an almost daily basis and regularly burns through gas) who does not run a fuel stabilizer (such as STA-BIL or an equal product) is just asking for trouble. The above statement is a **** poor attitude. I dont mean to call out the poster, but the statement tells me that they don't do regular equipment checks on top of not using a stabilizer. If they do regular checks (pull that saw off the rig, start it and RUN it once a week for at least 10-15 minutes or until it reaches it's operating temperature) the above statement would not come into play. Bad fuel is not an excuse in my book. A 2 quart bottle of STA-BIL (which is WAY more than any slow volly company will ever use in a year) only costs about $8.00.

    you dont have to tell me i work with chainsaws all the time, i know what happens to one when you dont change the gas, its a long process where the carburetor has to be removed and cleaned. Every time i mention it at the station i get the, well its not a big deal. And since im a junior firefighter not many people take my advice, it was the same way the other day with our generators none would start and me and another member who also works with engines took one whiff of the gas and looked at each other. Most of that stuff never gets used, i wouldn't be surprised if it hadnt been changed in a year or more.

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    Default Saws

    Thanks for the post. It looks like cutters edge for the new saw but I still need recommendations for replacement chain for the existing saw!

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    Check with the dealer where you purchased the saw, or a fire department supplier who has saws. Tell them you want an Oregon (or equal product) carbide tipped chain for the fire service. Some shops even have it in stock and will customize to your specific length.

    15 years ago, a 12" Oregon bar carbide chain ran just about $100.
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    OR convert it to a CE bullet? I know you can use the Raptor chains but you MAY have to change the sprocket. T.C.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue101 View Post
    OR convert it to a CE bullet? I know you can use the Raptor chains but you MAY have to change the sprocket. T.C.
    TC brings up a very good point that I totally forgot about. This is also an option that you might explore. As he said, you may have to convert to a different clutch sprocket, but the Cutters Edge "bullet" chain is a good product.
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