1. #1
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    Default Ventilation Suggestion

    Hello everyone. I want to invite anyone who wants to try this to give me feedback on whether they like it or not. I used to be a career firefighter at Dalton Fire Dept in Dalotn, GA. Several years back we experimented with using a recip saw for vertical ventilation on buildings. This came after breaking chains on several different types of roofs. I will explain to you how to carry out the ventilation and then you try it in a trining environment, if you can get a donor house that would be prferred, then come back and tell how it went. I'm just curious how many have thought of doing this before. Dalton liked it so much that all of the apparatus have 18V recip saws on them for ventilation, as well as the traditional chainsaw.

    Tools:

    Ground Ladder (Or Aerial Apparatus)
    Roof Ladder
    Recip Saw (We Used Dewalt) w/ Demolition Blade
    Pouch Clipped to Turnout Coat w/ Extra Demo Blades
    Pick Head Axe
    Pike Pole

    Procedure:

    Find Your Ventilation Spot
    Ladder the roof, place roof ladder
    Check recip saw and all tools, just to be double sure
    Clip saw and blades to coat and carry pick head axt to roof and sound the roof
    Use pick head to make your purchase point
    Use recip saw to cut whatever size hole you want, no need to remove shingles
    Have pike pole passed up from your partner and punch through attic ceiling and you're done

    Again, I'm just curious if it will work out for others like it did for us. And yes, i know there will be the die hard "we aint changin" foks on here, but please, I only ask you go into this with an open mind and honestly try it and evaluate it. I do look forward to any response, hopefully civil.

  2. #2
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    have you ever ran into it bogging down on thick roofs? Such as those with original wood decking, wood shingles, and several layers of asphalt. The chainsaws and K12s sometimes struggle, so I'm a little skeptical on the recip saw.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nameless View Post
    have you ever ran into it bogging down on thick roofs? Such as those with original wood decking, wood shingles, and several layers of asphalt. The chainsaws and K12s sometimes struggle, so I'm a little skeptical on the recip saw.
    Nope, the first time we used this method was on a house built in the early 1900's, never bogged down once. A lot of the housing in Dalton itsself is old, pre-1940's and 30's, we've never had it bog down, well, until the battery runs down, but that takes a while and we keep plenty of spares on the apparatus along with a charging station for fires we're going to be at for a while. Everytime we've used it it has worked excellently. Keep in mind though, you have to use demo blades, not wood or metal specifically. AS far as several layers, you might have to remove a little bit, but you have to with a chainsaw also. I just find the recip lighter, easier to use, and a little safer, once you let go of the trigger it stops, K12's keep going a bit after let go, some chainsaws will to, especially if they have a little age on them.
    Last edited by firefightinirish217; 06-11-2010 at 07:49 PM.

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    Oh yeah, and if you don't want to take the axe, although you should for sounding the roof, you can make the purchase point with the recip, just hold it parralel to the roof and pivot the blade down into the roof.

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    We have Recip Saws on all of our engines, ladders and of course a couple on the rescue. We have used them a couple times on the roof, but it's usually the vent team's call as to which saw to use based on their assessment.

    We did use a modified version of the above method to create a hole to visually check for fire and spray water on the side wall going into an attic space. Nothing fancy and lightweight materials, but it's quick and works. I think the important thing is to change the blade and/or battery at the first sign of the saw struggling.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zzyyzx View Post
    We have Recip Saws on all of our engines, ladders and of course a couple on the rescue. We have used them a couple times on the roof, but it's usually the vent team's call as to which saw to use based on their assessment.

    We did use a modified version of the above method to create a hole to visually check for fire and spray water on the side wall going into an attic space. Nothing fancy and lightweight materials, but it's quick and works. I think the important thing is to change the blade and/or battery at the first sign of the saw struggling.
    Yeah, changing the blade is also fast. Faster than changin a chain or a blade on a K-12. Mostly we use it on lightweight construction, houses, buildings with tin roofs, etc. AS far as industrial goes, well, that's why we keep the big boys on the apparatus.

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