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  1. #1
    Forum Member BrianB35's Avatar
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    Default Have a 1982 GMC Brush truck that I want to burn!!

    We have an out of service 1982 GMC K2500 brush truck that right now I want to take it out to a field and torch!!

    I'm a Ford guy and not a GM person and I'm stumped. The truck will not crank. Checked the battery and it's good. Pulled the starter and bench tested it and it's good. Used a test light from exciter from ignition switch to ground and got no 12v on VOM. Traced wire back, no breaks. Went inside under dash, no breaks but is in very poor condition. Thought might be a bad ignition switch, so I dropped the column and replaced the switch, put it back together and tried again and still nothing.

    Anyone know a good Chevy mechanic in Michigan or a Chevy truck website?


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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianB35 View Post
    We have an out of service 1982 GMC K2500 brush truck that right now I want to take it out to a field and torch!!

    I'm a Ford guy and not a GM person and I'm stumped. The truck will not crank. Checked the battery and it's good. Pulled the starter and bench tested it and it's good. Used a test light from exciter from ignition switch to ground and got no 12v on VOM. Traced wire back, no breaks. Went inside under dash, no breaks but is in very poor condition. Thought might be a bad ignition switch, so I dropped the column and replaced the switch, put it back together and tried again and still nothing.

    Anyone know a good Chevy mechanic in Michigan or a Chevy truck website?
    Do that ignition switch to ground again, using the battery negative post as ground. If that works, run ground straps from the block to the frame and to the body. Older GM vehicles were notorious for poor grounding. GM seems to have had a corporate fixation against good grounds.

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    Forum Member FWDbuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    Do that ignition switch to ground again, using the battery negative post as ground. If that works, run ground straps from the block to the frame and to the body. Older GM vehicles were notorious for poor grounding. GM seems to have had a corporate fixation against good grounds.
    I have a better fix- torch it as previously mentioned. Nothing can fix the main problem- the bowtie on the front.
    "Loyalty Above all Else. Except Honor."

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    And Ford circles all there mistakes.

  5. #5
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    If would be a trajedy to torch a 82' K-2500.

    TH-400 or Mucie 465?

    Man what I'd give to have a 82 K-3500 CrewCab with a 454 and a Muncie 465.
    The American people will never knowingly adopt Socialism. But under the name of 'liberalism' they will adopt every fragment of the Socialist program, until one day America will be a Socialist nation, without knowing how it happened. --Norman Mattoon Thomas, 6 time presidential candidate for the Socialist Party of America

  6. #6
    Forum Member FIREMECH1's Avatar
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    Also check your transmission neutral safety switch. They are known to be problematic.

    FM1
    I'm the one Fire and Rescue calls, when they need to be Rescued.

    Quote Originally Posted by EastKyFF
    "Firemens gets antsies. Theys wants to goes to fires. Sometimeses they haves to waits."

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    For what it's worth:

    I once had a 1976 Chevy truck with a starter that would work when bench tested, but wouldn't work under load. Tried another starter and solved the problem.

    I agree with txgp17; put away the torch.

    C6
    Last edited by Command6; 06-23-2010 at 06:15 AM.

  8. #8
    Forum Member Tim1118's Avatar
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    Is there 12v going TO the ignition switch? If you don't get 12v on the starter wire from the switch, and have already replaced the switch, I can't imagine what else may be causing that other than no power coming into the switch to push back out...
    TruckCommittee.com

  9. #9
    Forum Member Rescue101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim1118 View Post
    Is there 12v going TO the ignition switch? If you don't get 12v on the starter wire from the switch, and have already replaced the switch, I can't imagine what else may be causing that other than no power coming into the switch to push back out...
    If it's manual,Clutch safety switch. If automatic,neutral safety switch. Do a voltage drop test across every connection with a DVOM,this ain't rocket science. Hard to make a living with a Chevrolet. T.C.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue101 View Post
    If it's manual,Clutch safety switch. If automatic,neutral safety switch. Do a voltage drop test across every connection with a DVOM,this ain't rocket science. Hard to make a living with a Chevrolet. T.C.
    That, from a FORD man!

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    Make sure you don't have a fuseible link that has blown these will sometimes burn up and not take show through the insulation making it seem as if you have a completed circuit. Typically these are found at the starter or and or the positive side of the battery. just something to double check.

  12. #12
    Forum Member Rescue101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    That, from a FORD man!
    Yup,but it's the BOWTIES keeping my shop BUSY!,hehe T.C.

  13. #13
    Forum Member Rescue101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustoff30 View Post
    Make sure you don't have a fuseible link that has blown these will sometimes burn up and not take show through the insulation making it seem as if you have a completed circuit. Typically these are found at the starter or and or the positive side of the battery. just something to double check.
    No fusibles on the START side of this Chevy. If the link was blown you'd have nothing feeding the Ign switch. On THIS model. T.C.

  14. #14
    Forum Member FIREMECH1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue101
    Yup,but it's the BOWTIES keeping my shop BUSY!,hehe T.C.
    That's funny, before going to the city, my shop was full of F**ds. Remember, the Bowtie is Red, Hot and Alive. The F**d oval, is blue. Dead and lifeless.

    If you're up early enough, around 4am, and listen carefully, you can hear a F**d rust.

    Also, get off my coat tails. I already posted up the neutral safety switch.

    FM1
    I'm the one Fire and Rescue calls, when they need to be Rescued.

    Quote Originally Posted by EastKyFF
    "Firemens gets antsies. Theys wants to goes to fires. Sometimeses they haves to waits."

  15. #15
    Forum Member FWDbuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIREMECH1 View Post
    That's funny, before going to the city, my shop was full of F**ds. Remember, the Bowtie is Red, Hot and Alive. The F**d oval, is blue. Dead and lifeless.

    If you're up early enough, around 4am, and listen carefully, you can hear a F**d rust.

    Also, get off my coat tails. I already posted up the neutral safety switch.

    FM1
    The heartbeat of America is a flatline.........
    "Loyalty Above all Else. Except Honor."

  16. #16
    Forum Member mtg55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustoff30 View Post
    Make sure you don't have a fuseible link that has blown these will sometimes burn up and not take show through the insulation making it seem as if you have a completed circuit. Typically these are found at the starter or and or the positive side of the battery. just something to double check.
    I don't think there are any fusible links on the start side as previously stated, but I think a few people here may have them!!!!
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  17. #17
    Forum Member Rescue101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIREMECH1 View Post
    That's funny, before going to the city, my shop was full of F**ds. Remember, the Bowtie is Red, Hot and Alive. The F**d oval, is blue. Dead and lifeless.

    If you're up early enough, around 4am, and listen carefully, you can hear a F**d rust.

    Also, get off my coat tails. I already posted up the neutral safety switch.

    FM1
    NAH. I LIKE riding your coattails. Saves me gas,hehe T.C.

  18. #18
    Forum Member Fire304's Avatar
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    Can you crank it by jumping the solenoid? If not, problem's with the starter or the previously mentioned bad ground.
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