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12-27-2010, 08:27 PM #21
Last edited by DeputyMarshal; 12-27-2010 at 09:48 PM. Reason: typo
"Nemo Plus Voluptatis Quam Nos Habant"
The Code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.
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12-27-2010, 09:56 PM #22
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12-28-2010, 03:30 PM #23Forum Member
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Our water curtain appliance is designed to tilt so it can flow across the surface.
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12-28-2010, 03:56 PM #24Forum Member
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And back to the original question - it worked well in our situation , the only thing I would have done differently ,would to be have someone stationed at the fan to kill it if there was a wind shift or an inversion of some sort. This was an extermely smokey fire and took a long time to self vent. (multiple roofs /ceilings ) we also had gone completely defensive when we initated the ppv on the exposure and had two lines and a portion of the drop ceiling down to monitor the entire wall. (no vents in the flat roof)The fan was in the C/D corner of the exposure building (one story)and the vent was the front door on the A side of the exposure.
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12-29-2010, 09:50 AM #25
I think a lot of FF's lose track of two things about PPV. One: It's a TOOL. Two: That TOOL should have an OPERATOR with it and it DOES have a THROTTLE which DOES NOT necessarily have to be set at full throttle. I LIKE PPV's, have used them on various building constructions. Used with DISCRETION they can speed up your work and make your life EASIER, Used IMPROPERLY: Hello PARKINGLOT! T.C.
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12-29-2010, 10:00 AM #26
"Nemo Plus Voluptatis Quam Nos Habant"
The Code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.
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12-29-2010, 10:17 AM #27
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12-29-2010, 02:12 PM #28Forum Member
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Sounds like it helped slack
Last edited by 6Duron1; 12-29-2010 at 02:46 PM.
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12-29-2010, 03:29 PM #29
Pressurizing an exposure is VERY effective.
I have used it and had success on the following exposures; strip malls, a dwelling w/ attached garage and adjacent high rise floors.
The higher the interior pressure, the more effective it will keep fire out!
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12-29-2010, 04:46 PM #30
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12-29-2010, 04:54 PM #31
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12-29-2010, 05:12 PM #32
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12-29-2010, 05:17 PM #33
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12-29-2010, 05:20 PM #34
"Nemo Plus Voluptatis Quam Nos Habant"
The Code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.
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12-29-2010, 05:26 PM #35
Pressurization has everything to do with keeping out direct flame contact and radiant heat.
As fire spreads it seeks to go to a neutral or negative pressure (outside air, non-pressurized buildings, etc). Fire will not spread where there is a positive pressure, thus the reason for pressurizing exposures.
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12-29-2010, 05:39 PM #36
Pressurization has zero effect on both of those modes.
Pressurizng a detached exposure does nothing to prevent either radiant heat or direct flame contact from igniting its exterior. If you want to keep a detached exposure from igniting, keeping heat/fire off of its exposed surfaces is typically going to be a far superior strategy to pressurizing it.As fire spreads it seeks to go to a neutral or negative pressure (outside air, non-pressurized buildings, etc). Fire will not spread where there is a positive pressure, thus the reason for pressurizing exposures."Nemo Plus Voluptatis Quam Nos Habant"
The Code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.
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12-29-2010, 05:45 PM #37
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12-29-2010, 05:48 PM #38
"Nemo Plus Voluptatis Quam Nos Habant"
The Code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.
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12-29-2010, 05:49 PM #39MembersZone Subscriber
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Good lord, do you understand basic fire behavior or heat transfer? How does PP affect radiant heat transfer or conductive transfer?
It's amazing that more of us haven't burned down blocks ignoring the use of positive pressure on exposures. Where I live, if the positive pressure can protect a house, they probably would rather have it burn then pay the heating bill.
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12-29-2010, 05:54 PM #40
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