Thread: Repacking LDH

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWDbuff View Post
    Around here we worry about fighting fire, not how neat it looks.
    The two can, and should, go hand in hand.

    The Marines place a lot of emphasis attention to detail, and looking squared away (neat). They do ok in combat as well.

    I agree that if you load it properly, there's no need to hold it in place with a fan hanger, I've never heard that one before.

    Back to the original topic, if more than a section or two is laid out, we will drive over it to repack it. Our load is finished by folding the end of the last section back on itself, and wrapping a piece of webbing around it.
    Last edited by sfd1992; 09-21-2011 at 03:03 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sfd1992 View Post
    The Marines place a lot of emphasis attention to detail, and looking squared away (neat).
    Ask me sometime about the fire apparatus of the USMC outfit at the Military Installation I worked at as a Federal FF once upon a time.....And how many U-Joints, steering components, drag links, spring shackles, etc that had to be replaced by the motor pool due to zero lubrication.....due to "looking squared away" via blasting with pressure washer numerous times.............

    I guess there is a difference between "looking squared away" and looking neat. You can look neat by packing the hose right the first time. I know many, many companies that deal with 5" and have never used the bar, and their hose always looks good. I for one would not want to deal with the bar at 0330 with the back step all covered with ice and snow....especially when all I have to do is grab the hydrant valve and the loop of webbing and give a yank. If using the bar makes you sleep better, than all the power to you.
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    A couple of other things to add. Since we do a complete inventory every Saturday down the band aids in the trauma kit, it makes it easy to count the lengths of hose in the bed with the couplings all loaded in the front of the bed. And to be super anal, the latches should all be on the same side of the couplings, and facing up so they can be checked that they are all indeed coupled. Why do the latches belong on the same side? It makes it MUCH easier to uncouple and break the supply line if you need to use the wrenches if the latches are on the same side instead of 180 degrees apart.
    Leroy140 Fairfield, CT Local 1426

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leroy140 View Post
    A couple of other things to add. Since we do a complete inventory every Saturday down the band aids in the trauma kit, it makes it easy to count the lengths of hose in the bed with the couplings all loaded in the front of the bed. And to be super anal, the latches should all be on the same side of the couplings, and facing up so they can be checked that they are all indeed coupled. Why do the latches belong on the same side? It makes it MUCH easier to uncouple and break the supply line if you need to use the wrenches if the latches are on the same side instead of 180 degrees apart.
    Agreed on the latches being next to each other. However we prefer them to be to the side. Reason is, that way there's no chance of the latches hitting the pavement and unlatching. Granted, this has not happened to us in a long time. But with our first generation LDH, we had some of the very first locking couplings made, and those ones, albeit rarely, did have that problem. Almost reminded one of Jones Snap couplings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    Almost reminded one of Jones Snap couplings.
    And I bet no one here except maybe some of the older guys who are located within close proximity to the Philadelphia area even know what Jones Snap couplings are...............
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    Chief, if they are positioned on top, how would they hit the ground? The hose pays out straight, since the couplings are all oriented the same way, so they don't have to flip before going out of the bed?
    Leroy140 Fairfield, CT Local 1426

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leroy140 View Post
    Chief, if they are positioned on top, how would they hit the ground? The hose pays out straight, since the couplings are all oriented the same way, so they don't have to flip before going out of the bed?
    No doubt you're right there. The stuff we had 'way back (beginning late '89 into 1990 did some funny things. If you had the latches opposite one another, all bets were off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FWDbuff View Post
    And I bet no one here except maybe some of the older guys who are located within close proximity to the Philadelphia area even know what Jones Snap couplings are...............
    Right again. Just think though. If we flat packed hose then instead of accordion or horseshoe, they might not have popped open.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    Right again. Just think though. If we flat packed hose then instead of accordion or horseshoe, they might not have popped open.
    I wasn't around back then to suggest it, you were. And until I get 600 or 800 feet of 2.5" with JS couplings it still will not be my problem!
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWDbuff View Post
    I wasn't around back then to suggest it, you were. And until I get 600 or 800 feet of 2.5" with JS couplings it still will not be my problem!
    Good LUCK with that. JS went the way of the DoDo after locking stortz. MIGHT find some in the Philly archives.Camden had 'em but I'll bet they are LONG gone now. T.C.
    Last edited by Rescue101; 10-17-2011 at 05:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue101 View Post
    Good LUCK with that. JS went the way of the DoDo after locking stortz. MIGHT find some in the Philly archives.Camden had 'em but I'll bet they are LONG gone now. T.C.
    Chiefengineer11 has about 20 sets of couplings (or so) with the hose cut off in his garage......Really corroded and nasty, but they are there.....Would just have to de-corrode them and put em on some hose. Want them for the antique. Also need the elbows for the discharges.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWDbuff View Post
    Chiefengineer11 has about 20 sets of couplings (or so) with the hose cut off in his garage......Really corroded and nasty, but they are there.....Would just have to de-corrode them and put em on some hose. Want them for the antique. Also need the elbows for the discharges.

    But do you still have the key?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Truck_3 View Post
    But do you still have the key?
    Have a few of them, too, never used. But a modified flat screwdriver works just as well. That's what I was given when I came on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    Have a few of them, too, never used. But a modified flat screwdriver works just as well. That's what I was given when I came on.
    Got any COAL left? Oats? Hehe T.C.

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    on a more serious note .....last night we did our annual hose testing..and repacked as MG indicated ........oh my ............it went back in much better and left us more room in the bed.........sometimes you CAN learn something after 24 years if ya shut up and pay some attention. THANKS for the GREAT idea !
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue101 View Post
    Got any COAL left? Oats? Hehe T.C.
    You should have been at the Maryland Fire Museum, first Sunday in May. Could have had all you could want. They just need to be sure to get bituminous coal, not anthracite like they did a couple of years ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    You should have been at the Maryland Fire Museum, first Sunday in May. Could have had all you could want. They just need to be sure to get bituminous coal, not anthracite like they did a couple of years ago.
    One of the best days I ever had with my clothing ON. This is an 1893 ALF pumping into a 1903 Hale Water Tower.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWDbuff View Post
    One of the best days I ever had with my clothing ON. This is an 1893 ALF pumping into a 1903 Hale Water Tower.
    Post the video!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Weruj1 View Post
    on a more serious note .....last night we did our annual hose testing..and repacked as MG indicated ........oh my ............it went back in much better and left us more room in the bed.........sometimes you CAN learn something after 24 years if ya shut up and pay some attention. THANKS for the GREAT idea !
    Sweet. Glad it helped. A picture is worth a thousand words I guess!

    Switch to double jacket National Supply Hose (Triple Duty) and you'll probably be able to fit almost 1/3 to double as much hose in the bed!!

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    Ok, first off thanks for the help on this issue. My department completed our 5.0 " LDH hose testing this weekend. We tried the examples that everyone listed and things went pretty smooth. We did have one question that came up.
    I understand the concept of all the couplings at the front of the hosebed. The issue came up that as you place the next layer of hose in the bed, do you pull it all the way forward over the couplings to the front of the hosebed or do you keep this fold back approx 2-3 feet from the front (or just to the rear of all the couplings)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by taskforce16 View Post
    Ok, first off thanks for the help on this issue. My department completed our 5.0 " LDH hose testing this weekend. We tried the examples that everyone listed and things went pretty smooth. We did have one question that came up.
    I understand the concept of all the couplings at the front of the hosebed. The issue came up that as you place the next layer of hose in the bed, do you pull it all the way forward over the couplings to the front of the hosebed or do you keep this fold back approx 2-3 feet from the front (or just to the rear of all the couplings)?
    Hose folds go behind the couplings - we use 18" or so. If you pile folds on top of the couplings the forward part of the pile becomes too high. You defeat one of the purposes of a coupling forward pack - to be able to get more hose in the bed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefengineer11 View Post
    Hose folds go behind the couplings - we use 18" or so. If you pile folds on top of the couplings the forward part of the pile becomes too high. You defeat one of the purposes of a coupling forward pack - to be able to get more hose in the bed.
    Chief engineer 11, thanks for the clairification. That makes sense. Just a matter of teaching old dogs new tricks.

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    With a Quint the couplings should go in the trough and the hose, itself, under the aerial.

    This way the coupling does not and will not have to make the turn to exit the apparatus, but will play out the chute.



    .
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptOldTimer View Post
    With a Quint the couplings should go in the trough and the hose, itself, under the aerial.

    This way the coupling does not and will not have to make the turn to exit the apparatus, but will play out the chute.



    .
    Would it not appear that every one of those couplings will "flip up" when pulled? We normally try to manipulate the hose in the bed to ensure the couplings don't "flip up", just in case.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RFDACM02 View Post
    Would it not appear that every one of those couplings will "flip up" when pulled? We normally try to manipulate the hose in the bed to ensure the couplings don't "flip up", just in case.
    Not flip, but turn when their turn, no pun intended, come up for leaving the bed.
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