1. #1
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    Default El Cheapo hose tray

    No, it wasn't made in Mexico. I'm trying to get my dept. to fund this project as we have REALLY deep hose beds. This particular device was originally only designed as a prototype, with aluminum sides on the actual working model. It's basically a treated 2x8 ripped to fit between the hose bed dividers. A treated 2x4 is attached to the bottom to raise it so it clears the divider brackets on the bottom. I also planed the boards as well so they were smooth, this helps to slide the tray and hose in and out. I used good quality 2 1/2" deck screws to attach the boards. I also attached a handle on the end and a slide latch to lock it in place using the deck screws as well. This particular tray was designed to go on a Sutphen which has a chanel running across the back of the hose bed, so the latch is made to line up with it. Some brands may not have that so you would have to carefully drill a hole to accomodate the latch. The sides are 3/16" masonite. Masonite was used just to mock up the tray, as hopefully permanent trays would have 1/8" aluminum sides. Aluminum adds about $150 to the cost, depending on current prices. As built it was around $60. Using masonite will probably work on an engine that isn't real busy, and it would have to be treated with Thompson's Water seal or paste wax to repel water. It wouldn't take a lot of abuse, but the trade off is that it's real cheap, $13-15 a sheet and you can get 3 sides out of one 4x8 sheet (16" high). I attached the sides with stainless steel screws and counter sunk the holes so they were flush. The whole tray was made so there would be 1/16" clearance on both sides. Some dividers may need stiffening above the hose tray. I've seen some that have 5" on the other side, and there is some bowing in the center. A piece of C-channel may help that. You also have to MAKE SURE your dividers are parallel front to back otherwise the tray could bind.
    This tray will accomodate any kind of hose load, and up to 300' of hose. Three people can easily lift it into the hose bed. Two can do it if needed, but it tends to be hard to keep it from tipping with just two. If you use a short leader section of hose to your preconnect, you'll never have to climb up into the hose bed, you can attach it on the ground. You just load it as you were loading a normal hose bed, only on the ground. Leave 2-3 feet sticking out the front end to attach your leader hose, and then just lift it up and slide it in. We've tried it out and there's no problem deploying the hose. We've even used it to slide the hose into the hose bed and then slide the tray out leaving the hose in the bed. (although that takes a little practice.) Hose loading is a lot safer and quicker with a hose tray. This is just a cheaper solution for those that can't afford a fancy one. You will probably need a table saw, but a good carpenter can rig up a straight edge and use a circular saw. Planing is really nice, but a belt sander will work good too. Hope this idea helps make things easier and safer for some of you that can use it.Attachment 21806Attachment 21807Attachment 21808Attachment 21809

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    Default

    Hard to understand this idea. Do a video and post the video on the video area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperFire View Post
    Hard to understand this idea. Do a video and post the video on the video area.
    It's easy, load the tray just as you would would load it in the hose bed. Just leave a short section of the female end out to connect to.
    Connect to the preconnect outlet with a short 12-15' leader hose.
    Pick up the tray and slide it in the hose bed, engage the sliding latch and you're ready to go.

    It would take some time for me to put a video together, but if I can I'll try and do it.

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    The picture links are no good. The idea seem sound. What is the theory behind the idea?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperFire View Post
    The picture links are no good. The idea seem sound. What is the theory behind the idea?
    Well crap! They worked last night, but I'm on a different computer. I'll try again.

    The "theory" is that it's a real Pain in the neck to load hose in such a deep hose tray. If we are at minimum manning, (3 FF's) it's a tough job to load the hose. A short person has a tough time doing the folds in the front of the hose bed because the bed is deeper than their arms are long. Not to mention having to work at an odd angle and getting dirt all over your self from the 5" hose. And you wouldn't have to climb on the top of the hosebed making the job safer, not to mention it's much faster with a hose tray.

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    Default

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    Default

    Name:  S7300076.jpg
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Size:  22.0 KBOne more, hope these help.

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    Default nice backyard engineering

    Good idea, looks like a nice simple solution for you.

  9. #9
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    Default

    We've done something similar on our last two engines and had them built out of aluminum. Traditionally we had a "skid" that consisted of (2) 150' 1 3/4" in a horseshoe load, fed by a gated wye that was connected to 600' of 3' that was flat loaded. Few people wanted to pull these lines because they were a PITA to reload.
    Using two "cartridges" we now connect the gated wye to the rear discharge and feed the two 1 /34" hoses. They can be pulled individually but we pull out the cartridge in the same fashion, reload it, slide it into place and reconnect to the gated wye. This gives us two additional 1 3/4" 150' preconnects per engine. On the engines that don't have the "cartridges" we simply connected the gated wye to the rear discharge and flat loaded each of the 1 3/4" on top of the 3".
    If we need a skid we can disconnect the gated wye from the discharge and connected it to the 3" and pull the skid. Since this only takes less than a minute, is used infrequently and a skid requires additional manpower this option works for us.
    An additional benefit is that if the 1 3/4" is in the cartridge and you need 3" to supply a FDC or monitor it is easy to get into operation.

    johnsb, good ingenuity, keep it up.

    Walt
    Train like you want to fight.
    www.kvfd.net

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