How do you get air out of hose when you are getting ready to re-load hose?
Flush the foam out of the hose with clear water.
You DO use foam, don't you?
Blow the water out of the hose with the onboard CAFS compressor.
You DO have CAFS, don't you?
Then everybody takes every hose section apart at the coupler to try to get the last few dribbles of water out of the hose. They end up dragging the couplers in the dirt and maybe getting gravel inside the hose. I cringe every time I see it.
Then they have a handheld hose roller that they regularly forgot to put onto the hose at the truck to try to smash the hose flat to get all the air out so the hose will lay into the hose bed.
Hopefully they have the nozzle ready or somebody remembers to keep the end of the hose kinked over to keep the air out.
Is there a better way?
Do we need to run the hoses out to get a few more dribbles of water out?
Isn't there an easier way to get the air out of the hose?
It seems like there should be a way or method of connecting the draft vacuum onto the hose and just suck it flat and should be done.
Am I missing something?
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09-04-2012, 12:41 AM #1Forum Member
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Getting air out of fire hose for re-load. How?
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09-04-2012, 08:03 AM #2Forum Member
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Roll the hose first.
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09-04-2012, 08:25 AM #3
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09-04-2012, 08:33 AM #4
In 21 years, I can't say I've ever had a significant problem bedding hose due to excess air. If you mash it so flat that there's no air, you are badly creasing the rubber lining and setting yourself up for a rupture someday.
We don't even roll it first, unless it's nasty at the scene and we roll it for transport back to the station, where we wash it and re-bed it. Walk it out, put it on, go back to the barn."Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
--General James Mattis, USMC
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09-04-2012, 08:47 AM #5
Remember the guy on here years ago who said something about drafting through soft sleeve? I can't remember the conversation, but it may have been something about tandem pumping or dual pumping. Jumped right in and opined about watching it, and somebody else jumped in and commented on remembering to defy the laws of physics as well.
"Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
--General James Mattis, USMC
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09-04-2012, 09:00 AM #6Forum Member
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Am I missing something?
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09-04-2012, 09:30 AM #7
"The education of a firefighter and the continued education of a firefighter is what makes "real" firefighters. Continuous skill development is the core of progressive firefighting. We learn by doing and doing it again and again, both on the training ground and the fireground."
Lt. Ray McCormack, FDNY
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09-04-2012, 03:25 PM #8Forum Member
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Use the vacuum drain method. If the hose is on a slope, it doesn't take much of one, leave the uphill side connected either to the engine, or hydrant or the nozzle, Let the hose drain by gravity and as it does it will suck flat due to the water not only draining but the vacuum pulling the hose flat and allowing no air back in. If the hose is laid on a flat surface leave one end connected, or fold it over and then walk the hose out this will allow it to vacuum drain the same way as a slope.
It ain't rocket science.“The person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing, is nothing, and becomes nothing. He may avoid suffering and sorrow, but he simply cannot learn and feel and change and grow and love and live.” Leo F. Buscaglia
This place gets weirder and weirder every day...
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09-04-2012, 03:38 PM #9
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09-04-2012, 06:52 PM #10
I don't know what it is, but something about this thread reminds me of the fresh breath (Personal Hygiene for a 24 Hour Shift) thread.
Career Fire Lieutenant
Volunteer Chief Officer
Never taking for granted that I'm privilged enough to have the greatest job in the world!
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09-04-2012, 08:33 PM #11
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09-05-2012, 08:07 AM #12MembersZone Subscriber
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Never really had an issue with the attack lines getting too much air in them. We generally re-rack them on scene unless they are too dirty. We have had issues with getting all of the water out on occasion, but very rare. We have also had issues with the liner separating on older hose.
We did have some issues with the LDH when I worked with it. The key was to fold over the up hill end and let the water pull the air out as it drained (Fyred's method above). Disconnecting the couplings was sure to invite air in the hose and make racking a pain.
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09-05-2012, 01:16 PM #13
Walk the hose line out to remove water and whatever air as well. Start re-packing it like you always do, with the open end, hose butt, on the ground and most of what is left, water and air will evacuate by itself. If you use hose often like larger urban department do, this wouldn't be a problem.
I remember the old 100% cotton jacketed hose which was always a big problem re-packing. We used the horseshoe method back then. At the end of the day, it will all get repacked.Stay Safe and Well Out There....
Always remembering 9-11-2001 and 343+ Brothers
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09-05-2012, 09:53 PM #14Forum Member
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Unfortunately Cap, with some of the newer hose, especally the nitrille rubber stuff, the method of walking the hose out doesn't remove the air like with older hose. It becomes almost a necessity to either roll it, vacuum drain it, or use a hose roller to drain it. Rolling tends to be the fastest and easiest.
Last edited by FyredUp; 09-05-2012 at 09:55 PM.
“The person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing, is nothing, and becomes nothing. He may avoid suffering and sorrow, but he simply cannot learn and feel and change and grow and love and live.” Leo F. Buscaglia
This place gets weirder and weirder every day...
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09-06-2012, 02:48 PM #15MembersZone Subscriber
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For LDH this has been a constant problem, where FF's think they are helping by breaking the couplings. Best way is to break the couplings at the top of a rise and the bottom of a valley, ONLY. Fold the couplings over several times to prevent air from entering, and then pack from the higher elevation to the lower by driving ALONGSIDE the lay. Driving forward prevents the possible backing into a FF loading hose. The water flowing out of the lay helps to suck the hose flat.
For pre-connects, we always load dry hose from the rack. We have a relatively large industrial area that is making carbon based or powder metal based products. Once a hose is dragged through graphite, it must be cleaned BEFORE it is used in a residential fire. Home owners react unkindly to having a graphite stripe imprinted on a light colored rug. We have an OLD (1970's) hose washer that is utilized for all jacketed hose after every working fire. Still have some 3" jacked in service from 1968. Yes it does pay to take care of your hose.
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09-06-2012, 06:25 PM #16Forum Member
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kuh shie,
Whatyou described for LDH is exactly the same thing I described above. We call that the vacuum drain.
As for the pre-connects I see your point of cleaning them if they are subjected to that. Our pre-connects are all nitrile rubber and we hose them off before loading if necessary.Last edited by FyredUp; 09-06-2012 at 11:56 PM.
“The person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing, is nothing, and becomes nothing. He may avoid suffering and sorrow, but he simply cannot learn and feel and change and grow and love and live.” Leo F. Buscaglia
This place gets weirder and weirder every day...
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09-06-2012, 07:20 PM #17
We've always had pretty good luck with capping off one end of the LDH and then walking it with the roller or a pinch bar or handle of a halligan after it drains itself for a few mins.
"Loyalty Above all Else. Except Honor."
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09-06-2012, 10:50 PM #18
We break every coupling and roll each section, size does not matter. LDH is placed on a Roll N' Rack and reloaded section by section at the tailboard. We have perfectly neat hose beds as long as the crew loading it gives a damn.
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09-07-2012, 02:34 PM #19
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09-07-2012, 03:31 PM #20Forum Member
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A fire ground dehydrator works fantastic!!!!!!
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