1. #1
    Firehouse.com Guest

    Default Stabilization: A Step by step procedure

    Stabilization: A Step by step procedure

    How do you set up tensioned cribbing at a crash? I hope that teams arriving equipped with tensioned buttress stabilization equipment arrive at vehicle rollovers or vehicles on their sides and start initial stabilizatiion efforts first with either simple 2x4 or 4x4 blocking placed along the ground contact points or quickly put the longer diagonal braces in place first. Then with this initial effort completed, move on to set the strapping and tension the buttress units. This applies to whatever equipment you use. Stabilize initially to make it safe for us to be this close to the vehicle, then follow through to completion of the task.

  2. #2
    Firehouse.com Guest


    One important ongoing step I believe critical regardless of the system used - Res-Q-Jack, ground pads, crutch . . . is confirm proper usage. Strap tension should be monitored. Systems with 2 straps at each base as on the Res-Q-Jack should be strapped appropriately in directions which will restrict both sideward movement & kickout. Hook straps to a solid anchor. Purchase points should also be monitored. After stabilizing & tensioning how did the vehicle react (any strange noise, failing, tearing, or moving structure like a pickup box for instance, etc.) Was the vehicle overtensioned? With the Res-Q-Jack it is quite easy to lift a passenger vehicle off the ground - It's not meant to be used this way and besides we are not supposed to move the vehicle. In addition the car may behave strangely to being suspended depending on nature of damage. When the vehicle is tight and the stands are tight you should be stable.

    These systems do a great job in stabilizing a vehicle, but do not become complacent and get stung.

    Ron, you talked about temporary cribbing prior to tensioned stabilization. How do you feel about manual stabilization with a car resting on its side during the tension system setup?

    One other note, if block cribbing, etc. is used at roof rail prior to full 3-point tensioned stabilization using Res-Q-Jack, for example, be sure you remove this otherwise it will make folding a roof down more difficult and be an annoyance.

  3. #3
    Firehouse.com Guest


    Size-up first, then set in place lots of wedges, step chocks and whatever other sizes of lumber to fill the voids. This makes a safer area to work in to apply the buttress cribbing. Glass removal only if needed to place posts initially, same with air chisel. If we need to open a "pocket" to insert the posts. The posts are placed and the straps can either be same sise or transverse to connect both posts opposite together. We almost always use 4 posts (2 on each side) beacuse it provides maximum stability for most situaions. The posts are tensioned slightly and all supplemental cribbing is rechecked and tightened. Now the inside resucer makes their move and enters to protect and evaluate the victim. Glass comes out and roof starts to come off. The inside rescuer will handle cutting bottom posts on most ocassions. We do not just fold the roof down, we cut it off to clear the area. Interior disentanglement may now take place....and etc.

  4. #4
    Firehouse.com Guest


    On an side laying vehicle RescueLogic VSU's may be placed as follows: At either bumper choose a point that the head would be the most secure, adjust head to any of it's 4 positions that will get the best bite. Remove pin or pins and position the base away from the vehicle so that a 45 degree angle is achieved. Place locking hook of 2" strap to ring on base unit, using any one of the 3 hooks provided on the hook cluster, make a secure connection to the lower bumper area or run strap under car to frame and secure there. Do not apply full tension at this time or you can end up with unwanted movement of vehicle, apply only enough to keep unit in position. Repeat at opposite end of vehicle either at bumper or hood/quarter panel area or trunk/quarter panel area, using the pointed edge of head into those gaps. The 3rd or even 4th units should be placed on the frame side of vehicle near the frame itself or other "best bite" areas and then securing the base to the lower frame and tensioning all units at equal rates. Never over tension units as mentioned in previous post because lifting the vehicle can be achieved with these units.

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