Stabilization: Pickup truck on its side
One post in the stabilization thread asked about stabilization of a pickup truck on itsí edge. Compared to an automobile, the undercarriage is rich with places to set cribbing and braces. The full frame design gives us these opportunities.
The problem is on the roof side. The smaller roof makes us think a little more before we set or stabilization equipment in place.
Chances are you will totally remove the roof to extricate the occupants. Plan on this possibility. One place for your stabilization equipment would be the at the base of the high side A-pillar where it meets the dash. This is a good spot for automobiles also. You do have to make a hole in the corner of the windshield to get your brace to fit.
The B-pillar is not a good spot for the second brace. Remember, an extended cab pickup with a rear opening third or fourth door doesnít even have a B-pillar.
I agree with one of the posts. The second tensioned buttress brace should go into the pickup truck bed, probably at the front of the bed, close to the rear wall of the cab. A third brack could be set inside the high side of the bed towards the rear.
Be careful, Iíve seen pickup truck beds so damaged in the crash that they become loose. Check to make sure that you have a good bite and the the box is solid before you turn your back to the vehicle.
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06-13-1999, 02:33 PM #1rmooreFirehouse.com Guest
Stabilization: Pickup truck on its side
06-13-1999, 03:03 PM #2cp-nyFirehouse.com Guest
Ron, to avoid the concern over the damaged box either due to the wreck or natural corrosion in older trucks, I would set 2 points at the undercarriage and one point (the one applying tension) at the base of the 'A'-post.
For example, using the Res-Q-Jack I would apply the adjustable companion stands at the undercarriage where as you said there are a number of purchase points. One in the rear of the vehicle, and the other in front of the 'A' post (at undercarriage). I would apply the tensioning jack stand at the base of the 'A' post after creating a hole only large enough to slip the lift point through to 'cradle' the post.
Set up properly the jack unit will be applying a load somewhat diagonally back toward the rear companion stand. This will help facilitate somewhat even loading of the companion stands as the jacking unit is closer to the front companion stand.
Roof removal will not be hampered. cut is simply made a few inches up the 'A' post clear of the jack unit. Access through windshield is a little tight but not too bad as the jack stand leans diagonally away at the base. Another advantage of setting up system in this fashion is you now have less 'stuff' in your work area - only one stand, less strapping, etc, and no need to concern yourself about the integrity of the box.
Other methods/tools could be applied (including ZMAG, VSU, Airshore, etc.), like you say "read the wreck" and then apply the appropriate tools and methods.
06-13-1999, 07:50 PM #3e33Firehouse.com Guest
SOunds like the way we do it, Ron. Other option for placement of the front post is to cut open a pocket with the air chisel in the area of the front strut mount. Otherwise, we'd place it at the base of the high side a pillar.
06-14-1999, 12:06 PM #4Allen SiorekFirehouse.com Guest
We just ran this scenario last night. A Dodge Ram pickup (two door) on it's passenger side, in the middle of a vacant lot, with the undercarriage near a tree (it probably rolled onto the tree before it tipped over). Anyway, initial stabilization was 4 step chocks with wedges, two on each side, near each axle. In addition, we used two 4x4's that are around 3-4 feet long to use as diagonal braces from the undercarriage (one near each axle). Finally, we used two more step chocks with wedges at the roof of the cab. Since there was a large gap from the side window to the ground, we needed a 4x4 under the step chock just to reach the metal. The positioning of each were under the A-post for the first, and the second under the B-post, but closer to the bed of the truck than the roof of the cab. This allowed us to use our cutters at the four posts and roll the roof away from the victim.
One interesting issue we were concerned with was the pt had fallen to the bottom of the truck and was partially underneath the cab. Not only did we have to keep the veh from moving, but we had to ensure the roof (or other structural members) didn't fall onto the victim.
[This message has been edited by Allen Siorek (edited June 14, 1999).]
06-14-1999, 01:23 PM #5RescueLogicFirehouse.com Guest
We have found that on a pick-up on it's side, placement of our stabilization units would be as follows: 1st, place one unit at a 45 degree angel, from the front bumper or hood/Quarter panel area, to the ground secure unit lightly at base to lower bumper or opposite frame area with strap. 2nd, repeat with 2nd unit placed inside the bed area where bottom of bed and top side of bed meet, secure lightly to lip of bottom side of bed or to frame area opposite stand. 3rd unit will go in the center of the underframe on opposite side of truck, place head where best bite is available, adjust unit to a 45 degree angle away from truck secure to lower frame area and secure tightly. Secure other units tightly at this time. Vehicle will no longer move. By placing the 2 stands at the farthest point away from the top of truck, removal of top is not dependent on how units where placed, you are not having to work around them all the time. You shouldn't work around your stabilization but stabilize away from your work. Total time 2 rescurers maybe 2 minutes.
[This message has been edited by RescueLogic (edited June 15, 1999).]
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