We are currently useing standard blades with our Recip Saws, Is there blades that are more durable and made specificly for Auto Extrication use.
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Thread: Special Blades
07-16-1999, 05:42 PM #1BURNSEMSFirehouse.com Guest
07-16-1999, 06:04 PM #2e33Firehouse.com Guest
Absoloutley...Lennox 650r and 960r blades are designed for rescue and demolition. The 650 is about 6" the 960 about 9". We use them, they work fabulous. Will cut without lube and cut thru thick stuff.
07-17-1999, 02:02 PM #3wofd1Firehouse.com Guest
We have used 3 brands that have worked well for us. They are the Lenox brands mentioned in previous article and milwaukee brand #5093 and Starrett Brand #'s B61014 6" & B121014 12". try them out to see what works best for you. We also found alot depends on operator. A person who use a recip saw alot can usually get more out of the blade and saw than people not using them often. We also found the saw makes a difference. good luck
07-17-1999, 10:59 PM #4Jim GreeneFirehouse.com Guest
When you go to comps. you can talk to your brothers & sister firefighters about different tech. We were told by our brothers up in Mississauga Canada Fire Dept. about the Milwaukee super sawzall blade # 5510. It is a thicker blade than most. What we have found out is we have taken a roof off of 2 cars & we used the same blade to cut a steering wheel ring also. We have taken a new blade & have done several jobs useing a sawzall on a school bus includeing cutting the steering column several seats & several picture windows in the sides & the blade has held up. The problems we found are , you needn a special adapter on the sawzall to accept the blade & nadar bolts are a little harder to get through because of the thickness of the blade. We have 2 sawzalls 1 with the 5510 & the other that you can use regular blades.
07-22-1999, 03:17 AM #5FireDanFirehouse.com Guest
We have tried several different types of saw blades over the years and have come up with a few interesting conclusions:
1. Buy the best blades that you can afford, do not waste good money on so called bargains, the dime-a-dozen junk store variety blades just don't work.
2. Train your personnel in proper operation of recip saws, if you happen to have a building contractor in your outfit, let them show the others the proper way to use a saw. Experienced operators get far greater blade life, break fewer blades, and typically make faster cuts than than a person with little or no actual cut time with the saw.
3.The thicker "demolition" type blades are not always your best bet, as they are very stiff and don't fit into some of the odd places a more flexible blade can, the broader kerf of these blades can actually result in longer cutting times in hardened materials, and most importantly, for those with a limited budget, they do not necessarily last any longer than a good quality regular blade, but certainly are far more expensive.
4. Straight from the major saw blade manufacturers, don't lubricate recip saw blades. There are several reasons for this, including, causes premature wear on the recip saw by allowing build-up of gunk on the shaft, can slow the cutting process by clogging the blade, and most importantly, since most folks now have variable speed saws, smoke coming from the blade indicates too high a cutting speed.
5. Also direct from the saw blades manufacturers, when making cuts thru light guage materials, use a blade with a high tooth count per inch and a fast cutting speed, and when cutting thru harder materials, use a blade with a low tooth per inch count and a slow cutting speed. Smoking blades or sparks indicate too high a cutting speed.
hope this is of some benefit to you.
07-23-1999, 02:08 PM #6emsbrandoFirehouse.com Guest
First I want to echo what the other have said. The thicker, demolition type blades are great and don't have to be lubricated (at least as much as the standard ones)and will go through just about anything.
In my experiences, I use a standard blade for the easy metals, and the thicker blades for the harder metals. This way I don't have my good and more expensive blades wear down too easy.
I also carry an assortment of blades, even pruning blades since I don't know what type of situation I will face. The recip saw has many uses, and not all of them are in auto extrication. Keep an assortment of blades on hand.
Ed Brando, NREMT-P
ETMC/EMS Regional Director
Firefighter, Carthage Fire Department
Hand Tools Extrication Instructor
[This message has been edited by emsbrando (edited July 23, 1999).]
07-24-1999, 01:55 PM #7skip rupert61Firehouse.com Guest
Good words of advice on all the above posts, but there is one thing missing that I have found. We use primarily Lennox, but Starrett is good as well. What they have in commmon in they are both ceramic coated. I have found the ceramic coated blades hold out better than non-ceramic coated blades. We do not use the lubrication either, and find that it does not have an adverse effect on the way the blades perform.
Pennsylvania State Fire
Academy Rescue Instructor
07-25-1999, 09:16 AM #8WLynchFirehouse.com Guest
We have hosted the Mid-Atlantic Regional for the past 5 years, and have evaluated many diffrent blades. The Lennox blades seem to cut the best and as previously stated, you don't even need to lube them.
William J. Lynch Jr.
Portland Hook & Ladder Co. #1
07-26-1999, 07:21 PM #9psfireFirehouse.com Guest
we currently use Lennox blades for all applications but extrication is 960 r or back up choice 810
07-28-1999, 12:29 AM #10dfireFirehouse.com Guest
We have tried several differant types of blades and still agree that the Lennox 960R
Demolition blades are the blade of choice for our dept.
I will say this alot of how a blade holds up depends on the operator of the saw.
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