1. #1
    Firehouse.com Guest

    Cool Pardon my Ignorance

    Our Dept Decided Last Night on 1200 FT 5in Supply Line, Our 1350 of 3 in will go on our Older Engine, Now I saw Mention of Storz Couplings and or Connectors, What Changes will we have to make to our Engine 80s Model ALF 1000gpm Side Mount Panel, We currently use Standard Connection, Natl Standard Thread
    Nothing Special... What changes will need to be made to our Hydrants or is There a quick Connect. Im Totaly Lost, Just a Small Town F.D trying to get into the 1990s,, All Help appreciated.

  2. #2
    S. Cook
    Firehouse.com Guest


    First, be sure to get your 5" in 50' sections.

    Just order the size adapders you need from the NST to 5" storz for the apparatus and whatever your hydrant discharge is to 5" storz as well as a 2-1/2" gate valve to 5" storz and a standard 2-1/2" NST with hand lugs on it to 5" storz for the hydrant.

    If you can, go ahead and get all your hydrants converted to storz. Try to get the water dept. to pay for it. Tell them if they do, you can save water during the hydrant testing season.

    Here's what we have on each open discharge of the apparatus:

    2-1/2" NST female to 5" storz coupled to a 5" storz to 2-1/2" male which has a 2-1/2" female to 1-1/2" male adapter coupled to it which has a 1-1/2" female to 1" male coupled to it.

    All the adapters used 99% of the time are on the discharge, just remove down to the one you need. I can send a photo by email if you need one.


  3. #3
    Firehouse.com Guest


    You will need a few things to do this safe and efficiently.

    Go with the Storz

    Make sure you have storz to threaded female connections for the hydrants and the engine. These may be 5" threaded female to storz..4" to storz, you need to see what size threads you have.

    Swivels and turn outs:

    Attach a storz to threaded adaptor that swivels to each end of the supply line (hydrant and pump panel. This saves from dangerous twisting of the hose as it charges. Get turn out elbows as well. This lessens the stress on the connection between the hose jacket and the coupling. Put one on the hydrant.

    Relief valve:

    You need a piston or gate relief valve on the main intake port(s) of the pump. This gives you the ability to set the valve to the max pressure (usually 185 for supply LDH) by simply setting it with an allen key..you can do this in the field! The valve has a crank handle which opens the waterway. It also has an air bleeder to purge air which is taken in during charging. Standard practice is to open the bleeder (small hand screw knob) as the line is being charged which will evacuate any air in the line. Then when you open the gate all that goes in is water..makes an airless and smooth transition.

    2.5" to Storz:

    If you use hydrants..you can get more water outta them by tapping into one of the 2.5 ports. Get a 2.5" female NST to Male NST threads (whatever size you use) with handles..not rocker lugs. Attach a female NST to Storz to it and it gives u versatility...if you want to go all the way..reduce that set up back down to 2.5" threads. Adding a gate or ball valve to the hydrant side of this set up allows you to gate that port and change hose sizes if you have to.

    The Hydrant Pack:

    Great idea...
    1. Lay the first 20 feet or so of the LDH out on the ground.

    2.Get a seatbelt or web strap and tie it in a 8-10' loop.

    3. Flip the end over and make a fold about 5'. Essentially this means to just fold it back and lay it onto itself.

    4. Flip that fold over again making it so the coupling is now inside the loop and at "the end."

    5. Feed your web loop or seatbelt into that inner fold (it will serve as the handle so you can pull the loop off the bed).

    6. Put your hydrant bag inside the loop somewhere or attach it somehow so it is all one unit.

    The goal is to pull up to the hydrant or mailbox or whatever..and pull the web loop from the ground allowing your first 10-15 feet of LDH and the hydrant tools to come out in a nice neat package. Place the loop around the hydrant, mailbox or whatever and drive away. The extra 10-15' of hose will be sufficient to give you a working amount and keep kinks down.

    The man you really want to talk to is Paul Shapiro from Las Vegas FD. He writes for Fire-Rescue Mag. You can e-mail him at layinline@aol.com (i think). He specializes in this LDH and high water delivery stuff and will send you free stuff on your e-mail to help you out. He goes around the counrty with his company Fire Flow Tech. and teaches these concepts.

    [This message has been edited by e33 (edited October 29, 1999).]

    [This message has been edited by e33 (edited October 29, 1999).]

    [This message has been edited by e33 (edited October 29, 1999).]

  4. #4
    Jim M.
    Firehouse.com Guest


    The only point I'd disagree with above is the length of 50 feet. 100 feet is the standard in our area. From what I've read in your prior posts, you're in a rural area. When you lay the line, you're not laying down a 50 foot driveway. From my experience, the 100 foot lengths work better and pick up easier. Certainly, the fewer couplings you have in the bed, the easier it is to reload. We did take and make some 25 feet sections for utility fill lines but all the lengths in the bed are 100's. Good luck. You won't regret it.

  5. #5
    S. Cook
    Firehouse.com Guest


    We go with 50 footers on the engines because they're easier to roll and tote if you have too. We have 2- 25' pigtails on each engine also.

    Our wagon has the 100' sections.

    Also, I did forget to mention relief valves for your discharges if you're going to relay pump your 5".

    And you do want to talk to Paul Shapiro of the Las Vegas FD. He posts on these forums as Big Paulie from time to time. Get his book!

  6. #6
    Firehouse.com Guest


    Besides my career FD, I am a volly on a very small department. We use 5 inch in 100 foot lengths. Each engine carries 10 lengths and 1-50 footer. As far as appliances go we have the following on each engine: a gated pressure relief intake with 5 inch storz, 2 1/2"F to 5 inch storz adapters, one on a pump discharge and one in the hydrant bag, 4 1/2"F to 5 inch storz hydrant adapter, and our main pumper carries a 5 inch storz to 3-2 1/2" manifold, our pumper tanker carries a 4" storz to a 5 inch storz adapter, we also have adapters on our hard suction to make them compatible with our storz intakes.

    The one thing I would add is discharge relief valves for the 5 inch adated discharges.

    If you reload your hose at the scene I see no reason to spend the extra money on 50 foot lengths. If you need to lift or carry a 100 foot section.....get help!

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