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Thread: Knot Strength

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Post Knot Strength

    Does anyone have or know where to find a list of the percentage of strength a knot loses when tied. I have heard that such and such a knot loses _____% of the strenght of the rope. I have looked but so far have found nowhere to find this information.


  2. #2
    Forum Member weir33's Avatar
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    Cool

    On this site you will find adobe pfd manuals that have a good section on ropes / knots and the and how to care for rope including % .

    <br /><a href="http://www.ccg-gcc.gc.ca/sar/nsm-msn/main_e.htm" target="_blank">http://www.ccg-gcc.gc.ca/sar/nsm-msn/main_e.htm</a>

    This link has some good stuff I have THE KNOT BOOK which is quite good.It has step by step colour pictures. <a href="http://www.dur.ac.uk/~dds8sgg/SCOUTING/IGKT.html" target="_blank">http://www.dur.ac.uk/~dds8sgg/SCOUTING/IGKT.html</a>

    <br />hi me again try searches for... " Knots for Mountaineering " ( good results ) and "international Knots "

    [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: weir_33 ]</p>
    J.B.WEIR
    Summerville Vol Fire Dept
    Pride In Service !

  3. #3
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    Post

    fire-inst,<br />Here are the weakens ther rope per CMC Rope Rescue Manual (second edition). This is what I go by when I teach a Rope Rescue Classes.

    Bends<br />Double Fisherman’s Knot 21%<br />Figure 8 Bend 19%

    Loops

    Figure 8 Loop (with a bight) 21%<br />Figure 8 Loop (follow through) 19%<br />Double Figure 8 Loop 18%<br />Figure 9 Loop 9%<br />Inline Figure 8 25%<br />Bowline 33%<br />Butterfly 25%<br />Overhand Loop (with a bight) 15%<br />Overhand Double Loop 26%

    Rope with a loop in it

    Figure 8 Loop 35%<br />Inline Figure 8 Loop 41%<br />Butterfly Loop 31%

    Knots in Web

    Water Knot 36%<br />Overhand Loop 35%<br />Figure 8 Loop (with a bight) 30%<br />Figure 8 Loop (follow through) 26%

    I hope this helps you out. If you have any question please feel free to drop me an E-mail.

    David Gerrer<br />Owner / Lead Instructor<br />Technical Training Solutions, LLC<br /><a href="http://www.TechTrngSols.com" target="_blank">www.TechTrngSo ls.com</a>

  4. #4
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    Try "Knots for Mountaineering"<br />by: Craig Luebben<br />Pub: Evergreen Press

    This gentleman has a Masters in Mechanical Engineering, Holds several Patents for climbing devices, and has written a complete series on all aspects of climbing, including "Self Rescue" etc.

    Craig is extremely articulate and thorough in addition to being really down to earth. He is a Professional Mt. Guide and is developing and implementing new techniques all the time. A valuable resource for the fire service.

    I wager he will return e-mail. His address should be available from the Publisher.

    Good Luck and remember-GRAVITY KILLS.
    Mark Phillips<br />HydraTank, LLC.<br />Phoenix, Arizona

  5. #5
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    Post

    Thanks Techresq that was what i was looking for.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Remember - knot strength is not the only thing to consider.

    The appropriateness of the knot for the given application MUST also be considered.

    Also - remember that wet ropes, etc. don't behave the same way as dry ropes. How well a knot is tied matters - is it well dressed and finished?

    The most "efficient" knot in the world, poorly tied and used inappropriately can kill you (or someone else) just as a "weak" knot can.

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