Thread: Skid Units

  1. #1
    Junior Member

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    Question Skid Units

    Anyone have any ideals for a home made skid unit? Like stuff to watch out for when building it ,number of outlets , number of preconnects, tank size tank, pump size(types), and any other tools and gear carried on the truck. Note we are using a 1999 Dodge rams 2500 4X4.


    Thank you for anything u have to share.
    FF/Engineer Greg

  2. #2
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    Default Skid units

    Check out the Michigan DNR, Roscommon fire equipment testing site for excellent information on skid uints and other wildland firefighting equipment.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Rather than build a unit, both My and our outpost turned spin off Dept. purchased some simple pre-made units from Vest Sales & Service - rvest@swva.net - (540) 651-6717.

    Ours was set in a early 90's model Ford F-250 HD truck. (You can see a picture at http://n2dfire.tripod.com/stationbio.html but it's a frontal shot and dosen't show the skid unit at all)

    The skid is simply a platform (with 4" risers to allow under skid storage) holding a 300 gal. poly tank, a Honda powered pump - electric start w/ recoil back-up (300gpm I think), and a reel loaded with 1" forestry line (300 feet).

    There is also 2 small "hose beds" along the street (drivers side).

    The entire pump & manifold are located at the rear of the unit and include:

    1 - 2-1/2" Gated Intake
    1 - 2-1/2" Gated Tank to Pump
    1 - 1" line to booster reel (Non-gates - see comments below)
    1 - 2-1/2" Gated Discharge
    1 - 1" Gated Discharge with High pressure 3/4" "garden hose" (for filling bladder packs)

    I have no idea what the unit itself cost, but it wouldn't cost you anything to e-mail Rodney and get a price (shipping is where it will get you I'm sure).

    To contine on to answer you're question:

    One thing I would add/change about our unit - the plumbing to the booster reel has no gate or vavling. This means that if you have a line blow out on the reel or simply want to screw off the nozzle and add more line - you have to shut the pump down. This could be anywhere from inconvinient to forcing the truck out of service.

    Additional things carried on our truck.
    2 sections of light weight 3" suction hose w/ 2-1/2" couplings (stored in a "U" shape under the skid platform)
    A floating strainer w/ 2-1/2" coupling
    About a half dozen Fire Rakes (stored under the skid)
    2 Pulaski's (stored along the curb (passenger) side of the tank.
    1 Husky Chain Saw - stored in it's plastic case which then sits in a box mounted atop the tank.
    A tool box w/ a hydrant wrench, 2 spanner wrenches and various adapters & reducers.
    A 25' length of 3" hose (for nursing / refilling from other trucks or hydrants)
    A 150' "Dead Lay" of 1-3/4" (50' Sections) in one of the hose beds.
    A 300' "Dead Lay" of 1" forrestry (50' Sections) in the other hose bed.
    4 50' sections of 1" forrestry in donught rolls.
    Misc. Gas and Oil cans stored along the Curb Side of the tank.

    Hmm - that's about all I can think of from memory.

    Hope this helps.
    Take Care - Stay Safe - God Bless
    Stephen
    FF/Paramedic
    Instructor

  4. #4
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    Try to estimate the weight of all tools, equipment, and personnel before you settle on a tank size. You do not want to exceed the GVW of the chassis.

    We pipe all of our outlets through a manifold with the exception of the 1.5" outlet. The manifolds are constructed from steel and are rectangular in shape. Any welding/machine shop should be able to build one.

    We put a "T" fitting at the 1.5" outlet of the pump. This allows a straight through to the 1.5" line. The other leg of the "T" is plumbed with 1.5" rubber hose to the manifold. The manifold has outlets for the booster reel(s), spray bars, tank fill/recirculating line and several 1" discharges. Each discharge has it's own shut off valve.

    This allows all the primary discharge valves to be in one location and easily accessible. In adition we run KK injection foam systems which are piped ahead of the "T" so that foam can be used through the 1.5" discharge or through any outlet on the manifold. The only drawback is forgetting to close the recirculating valve when using foam and winding up with foam in the tank.

  5. #5
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    Default ideas.

    We are changing our setup on a brush truck. We are rural, and draft water most of the time. The change is; a 300 gpm pump, 800' 2.5", 200' 1.75", 100' 3/4" line, 200 gal tank, generator and lights, rakes, shovel, ax, strainers, 2 10' 2.5" hard suction, 1 - 2.5" gated Y, 2.5" to 1.75" adapter.

    We hope to utilize it better by having the ability to relay water from a pond, or at a larger house or barn fire. Often there isn't room to get a pumper to the back side, but a pickup would have no problem (not always of course). The idea is that we could lay the 2.5" around the back by driving the truck. Pulling that line manually off the back of the pumpr while climbing over the dump tank and away from the tankers seems to not be the most ideal situation. Once around back you have some options. You could pull the needed line 2.5" or 1.75" or connect a portable monitor. Putting this together now. Anybody with any experience or ideas please respond.

    The pump will be mounted in the back, a 1.75" crosslay next to the cab ontop the tank, the generator goes on the tank, the 2.5" lays in the bed between the pump and wheel well (with sides), and the hand tools fit well into the space along the wheel well front to back. The plumbing is steel and lays basically on the bed directly behind the pump. It does come in under the pump (the pump being slightly raised) to allow the connections and valves. The pump has a "T" on the output so that its a straight shot if pumping from a pond, and the other goes to the tank and 3/4" line. The intake for the pump comes in on the left side of the truck behind the wheel well. If we use it to put a line to the rear of a fire it will not be plumeded to / through the pump.

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