Rear suctions

[Firemoose]

Our department is currently designing a new pumper and is looking real hard at a rear suction. We have a lot of tight driveways and roads, so the thought is if we can just pull straight in drop the "pool" and initiate attack, then backing out could wait until extra personnel and scene lighting were there to assist. Any experiences positive or negative would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[bobsnyder]

I've seen one or two engines over the years that had rear suctions. The companies that had them didn't seem to use them very much, but they had no complaints.

I don't see why this wouldn't work well. Like anything else, it comes down to the spec. Don't skimp on pipe size, make them build it with a straight (or nearly straight) shot to the pump (instead of using a bunch of 90-degree elbows around axles, etc.), and you should be fine.

[Rayr49]

We speced a rear suction when we ordered an engine in 1996. We will spec rear suction on all future engines.

We also have areas with tight driveways and no hydrant system. The idea of setting the pond to the rear works well. Just remember to set it slightly to the side so the engineer can monitor the water level from the pump panel. Your control for the suction should be at the pump panel.

We also use the rear suction in hydrant areas. It gets the LDH away from the sides of the truck and allows better access to the compartments on the sides. It also allows better access to the discharges at the pump panel.

[choad33]

Something you may want to add for a rear intake is a second primer. It will make for faster drafting set up, and could be used as a backup. Where I work paid on call has rear intakes I love it

[chief4102]

firemoose;
We have rear suction on our #1 pumper. I speced it for the reasons that you have listed, plus high snowbanks along driveways. It works well for those purposes. With hydrants, it provides good flows and keeps the supply hose out of the engineers way. Ours is a 3" intake. As Bob Snyder stated, keep the intake pipe large and stright. If you need to supply high flows when drafting with the rear suction, you should spec a full size steamer intake (if possible). The elbows in the pipe reduce the flow and make the pummp work harder to move water. If done right, I think you will find it to be a worthy addition to your engine.

[ac52]

Both of our Pierce 1750 gpm pumpers have a 5" rear intake / discharge. Used as an intake, it allows us to disconnect our 5" supply hose from the bed and hook right up. Great for tight streets. When used as a discharge, it is supplied with 2) 3 1/2" to 5" pipe. It can flow the capacity of the pump. We are specing our new truck with it we like it so much!

[MJFire]

are you wanting a rear pony suction/supply connection or a true rear suction
the rear pony supply (2 1/2 ) can be quite useful when space is restricted but will not supply anything close to pump capacity at suction (dump tank etc)
a true rear suction ( full pump capacity) is hard to accomplish without serious piping engineering because of turns and bends needed and is probably not worth the effort

[CHIEFENGINEER]

Rear Suction Ideas, I think you will be happy with a pump that is able to take on water from 360 degrees. Do not restrict the ability to take on water from every angle. Relay or Tandem pumping would kill you. T. Sims GRFD.

[KFD707]

I have to disagree with MJFire regarding the rear suction not being worth it. Hale pumps have a rear inlet on the suction side of the pump capable of having their MIV-E attached directly to it (master intake valve-electric). This is a full flow 6" valve. The pumper manufacturer can then sleeve a 6" pipe straight through the water tank to the rear of the truck, where a 6" hard suction hose can be connected. This arrangement is very "do-able" for any builder, and will flow up to 1500 GPM at draft. The only other thing required for this setup is one hell of a good tanker shuttle!