1. #1
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    Default water compression

    What is the typical pressure that water is at in a residential setting? Also does anyone know a mfg`r that makes electronic/manual water control valves, in line and 3 way valves.
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    I am looking at a design for a mobile water transport/distrubution trailer. If I were to make a tank out of stainless steel to hold potable water, would I have to do anything to the steel (paint, protective coverings...) so it can hold water? Also on another note, is a trailers GVWR the limit to how much the trailer can hold?
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    I will also be running 3 2hp air compressors(120v 15amp ea) and 4 1/2 hp 110v water pumps. Will a generator putting out 13,000 watts(20HP) be enough power to handle all the pumps?
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    What is the typical pressure that water is at in a residential setting?
    Ahhhh......hydrent tests? ISO?

    Also does anyone know a mfg`r that makes electronic/manual water control valves, in line and 3 way valves.
    Look in any Firehouse magazine.




    If I were to make a tank out of stainless steel to hold potable water, would I have to do anything to the steel (paint, protective coverings...) so it can hold water?
    Ahhh make sure the seams are sealed. And it is stainless,so a coating would be pointless.
    Your probally better off useing a prebuilt tank.

    Also on another note, is a trailers GVWR the limit to how much the trailer can hold?
    Think about that and if you havent answerd it your self, slap your self.


    I will also be running 3 2hp air compressors(120v 15amp ea) and 4 1/2 hp 110v water pumps. Will a generator putting out 13,000 watts(20HP) be enough power to handle all the pumps?
    Why dont you just run a single 10 hp compressor?

    If you insist running the 3 compressors you will have 63amps left over to play with. If your on the 3 compressors I would put the 2 motors on a 30 amp breaker. Or you could run a single 5hp compressor and have a tank cascade system.
    Last edited by stm4710; 09-08-2004 at 09:21 PM.
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    If the trailer/tank is for water distribution whats up with the air comps AND pumps, are you planning on pressuring the water off or pumping it???? It may be cheaper for you to use a drinking water rated plastic tank rather than stainless.

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    Think about that and if you havent answerd it your self, slap your self.
    Actually, it includes the weight of the trailer itself, not just the additional weight it can carry.
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    CaptainMikey

    Don't reinvent the wheel. Call your state forester and tell them you need a "water buffalo". M149 400 gal water tanker trailer. SUed by all branches of military. SS or poly tank potable water tank on heavy duty 2.5t 2 wheel chassis. Regularly available thru FEDDS surplus. You only cost will be transport to you. Nice piece of equipment. Has sufficient space ahead of the tank/on frame for pumps (or air comp).

    Residential city water system "should" be around 60psi. Actually range from 20-100psi depending on system design.

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    M149 water buffalo
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    I also would ask why you would run more smaller compressors when you could run one or two larger ones. About the generator handling the pumps and compressors, heres a formula for you, Watts=Volts*Amps. In the small town I live in currently, our water pressure stays around the 50 psi mark. Good luck with the project!

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    If the purpose of the compressors is to pressurize the water tank you should be aware that "working air" compressors (as opposed to breathing air) have a small amount of oil in the air, this will spoil the water in your tank.

    Stainless tanks need no coating.

    A poly tank will be much cheaper and since its lighter you'll be able to carry more water for the same GVW

    GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight, Registered, the max total weight of your vehicle by law.
    GVW = Gross Vehicle Weight, what the vehicle weighs right now.

    In both of the above this is the total weight of the trailer and cargo. If the GVWR of a vehicle is 10,000lbs and the vehicle weighs 4000lbs, your payload is 6000lbs.

    Any good plumbing supply house should be able to get you potable water valves in both manual and electric controled.
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    From CaptainMikey
    If I were to make a tank out of stainless steel to hold potable water
    From DOH!!!
    Ahhh make sure the seams are sealed
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    Thanks for all the info. This is just a crazy project that I have, I purchaced a small 2 acre lot and it surprisingly came with a brand new haulmark trailer, So I had a crazy Idea, something to transport water on my friends farm. It would cost more to put a pipe to the new farm-cabin. So we made something that can be refilled and transported back and forth and can be put into storage-no frozen pipes!!! Also it can be used for natural disasters as a water distribution site or when camping. My other Idea was to put a in line water purifier so you can pull from a hydrant durring a natrl disaster et... (not a line that is contaminated) and transport it.
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    In that case just get a small domestic water pump from a marine supplier. They run off 12VDC, are pressure on demand type with built in pressure sensor, can run dry, and can get you up to 4gpm. A single group 27 battery should get you about 2500 gallons of pumping time per charge.

    No need to pressurize the tank (which leads to a whole different level of construction, most storage tanks are only rated for +/-5psi).

    http://www.sailnet.com/store/item.cfm?pid=17043

    As for a filter, would you need one? If you did you can put a sediment filter on the intake or discharge of the pump.

    For disaster use put a big gravity drain on it and park it up hill from the site you need water at.
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