+ Reply to Thread
Page 6 of 6 First ... 3456
Like Tree2Likes

Thread: Fireground Tricks of the Trade.....

  1. #126
    Forum Member
    Lewiston2FF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Niagara Falls, NY, USA
    Posts
    1,924

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doughesson
    On my old department,we'd keep a set of tools in the engineer's compartment (same place yours is described as being,left side,No.1 compartment)and the hydrant bag strapped to a 6' loop of 5" line in the hosebed.Either way,if they're needed everyone knows where a set is and the hydrant guy can pull the line and be able to dress the hydrant as soon as he gets to it.
    In it is a threaded Storz adapter,a 2 1/2" gate valve and of course a hydrant wrench.
    I would put a rubber mallet or a bowling pin in there to tighten down the threaded to stortz adapter.
    Shawn M. Cecula
    Firefighter
    IACOJ Division of Fire and EMS

  2. #127
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    164

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NDeMarse View Post
    Nice thread Vinnie. This should be good!

    I can go on all day on stuff like this!

    - When operating any line as a nozzle FF keep the nozzle out in front of you at least 3 feet. It should be just in reach so you can operate the bale of the nozzle. This makes it easier to operate the line. It is easier to bend the nozzle around a corner to hit fire or if there is fire over your head you don't have to do a triple lindy backflip to hit it. Just point and aim and it goes out.

    - Do yourself and your company a favor and saw off the pistol grip so you don't get stuck with the nozzle in your chest and unable to operate it without wrestling the line and overworking yourself.


    - When adding a length to a short-stretch or preconnect (remember preconnects can't hit everything) ALWAYS add it from the supply (engine or stand-pipe) side. It is much faster and easier to add it when done this way. It is usually the Engine Chauffeur that is adding it anyway, and that is his position.

    - ALWAYS FLUSH THE HYDRANT OR STAND-PIPE. THIS ISN'T A TIP, IT'S A MUST, BUT YET FFs STILL DON'T DO IT! Why hook up if you don't know if it is going to work?

    - If operating with no backup FF. Situate yourself on a wall before you open the line. Let the nozzle reaction be absorbed by the wall.

    - If operating with no backup FF. Put a knee on the hose line about 5 feet back from the nozzle before you open the nozzle. The nozzle reaction should be transmitted to the floor.

    - When washing down. Whoever is overhaulling, have them pull ALL of the ceilings and ALL of the walls that need to be pulled. Then have them LEAVE the room. Move to one corner of the room and operate the line soaking all of the area that needs to be covered. Shut down the line, and move to the opposite corner and do the same thing. Move on to the next room and do the same until overhaul is complete. This doesn't allow any part of the opened up area to not be touched by water.

    - In hallways, to avoid cluttering make large loops of hose on the wall (about 5'-6' high) right outside the fire apartment on the opposite wall. Gravity will allow the hose to feed to the nozzle team. When the loops start to go away, feed more hose to the loop or make another one.

    - If you are operating with a solid stream (smooth-bore) line and need to perform hydraulic ventilation. Spin off the outside tip (AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET), move to a window and crack the nozzle 1/2 way. It is not as effecient as a fog nozzle for hydraulic ventilation but it works great. You can also leave the tip on and crack the nozzle 1/2 way and that works too. I personally don't like fog nozzles for interior fire attack, and most advocates of fog nozzles use the "well I can't vent with a solid stream nozzle!" Throw this at them and see what they say. Like I said, it takes a little longer, but we are in a slow-down situation at that point. There is no need to "hurry up and get the smoke out of here" once you have it knocked down.

    - If operating as the back-up FF. Get right on the nozzle FFs back. There should be NO space between you and the nozzle FF. When the line is open there should be constant pressure on the nozzle FF so that the only thing that they are doing is pointing the stream. I have seen a backup FF up to 5' behind the nozzle FF. You are doing no good to anyone there. The back-up FF should also be giving the nozzle FF positive encouragement. Phrases like "keep going", "good job", "keep moving in" do A TON for a new or even the experienced firefighter in a fire. Remember, you are there to back them up physically and mentally!

    I'll throw more down later!
    ^^^I love this old thread! been enjoying reading some of the tips and tricks getting passed along.

    Fyredup disagreed a little while ago in one of my threads about the "bolded part" of the above quote. Very cool to read some additional feedback on this and see it resonated by another poster.

    What are some other tricks youse all have learned on the job? pass it on... hope to hear some additional stuff, and see a good thread like this continue on.

  3. #128
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,802

    Default

    do your company a favor and get a nozzle with a pistol grip. The handle is very useful.

  4. #129
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    164

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NDeMarse View Post
    Nice thread Vinnie. This should be good!

    I can go on all day on stuff like this!

    - When operating any line as a nozzle FF keep the nozzle out in front of you at least 3 feet. It should be just in reach so you can operate the bale of the nozzle. This makes it easier to operate the line. It is easier to bend the nozzle around a corner to hit fire or if there is fire over your head you don't have to do a triple lindy backflip to hit it. Just point and aim and it goes out
    lol nameless, your humor is appreciated.

    a good video which is done by the superb Lt. McCormack can be found here:http://bcove.me/fa6kuk1b (link is safe and can be found on urbanff: http://www.urbanfirefighter.com/index.html)

    It deals with the "bolded part" of the above quote.....creating a "bow" to reach the stream behind yourself.

  5. #130
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    164

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by VinnieB View Post
    2) The 2.5" again.....the scenerio is that you HAVE to make a very quick push to help effect rescue of trapped members.......anyone who has actually operated a 2.5" in real fire knows how much of a BIT*H it is.....(especially basements, cellars, and subcellars ).....anyway..back on track,,,,,,
    What we do is....operate the line...crack it down, stand up to a crouch, grab the bail, and PUSH IN by RUNNING A few feet....get back into the crouch, operate, and repeat the advance......until you make the objective. If you get burned...(and you probably will.....but you got the water), no matter, it means you did what was neccessary to make sure your brothers go home ot kiss thier sweethearts that night.......this is a TRYED and TRUE tactic.....and basically...its the JOB....
    ^^^Ah yes, the pin and hit! http://link.brightcove.com/services/...id=19409724001

    ^^^here's another video demonstration, which will show the "pin and hit" in practice.

  6. #131
    Forum Member
    FyredUp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Rural Wisconsin, Retired from the burbs of Milwaukee
    Posts
    10,106

    Default

    Firehouse_Chick,

    Frankly, you are NOT a firefighter. You have never crawled down a hallway to face a fire. You have never used a hoseline, let alone any type of nozzle in actual real world fire combat. All of your posts are thusly reduced to the equivalent of "Well, this one time at band camp."

    Further your stupid, childish need to mention me because you managed to find someone, who unlike you, is really a firefighter, that disagrees with me about pistols grip nozzles shows what a complete troll you are. You are here for one reason and one reason only. Your 15 minutes of fame.

    By the way, we do pin and hit with 2 inch hose, half the weight of 2 1/2 and we actually have the ability to flow 60 gpms more than the standard FDNY smoothbore nozzle because we use 1 1/4 inch smoothbores instead of the 1 1/8 tip that the FDNY uses.

    You are absolutely hysterical. You have ZERO personal experience or knowledge. You have been fed a bunch of absolute FDNY propaganda by your brother. Then because of some hero worship thing you have going you have to search out the internet to find that one video, or quote, that you believe makes you right. Pathetic. Come back in 5 years or so, if you actually ever make it onto a fire department, and tell us YOUR OWN experiences. Just because some one told you something, or you saw it in a video, or you read it, doesn't make it your experience and that is why you get so little respect here.

    Have a nice day.
    Last edited by FyredUp; 01-13-2011 at 06:06 PM.
    Crazy, but that's how it goes
    Millions of people living as foes
    Maybe it's not too late
    To learn how to love, and forget how to hate

  7. #132
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Astoria, NY
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FyredUp View Post
    Firehouse_Chick,

    Frankly, you are NOT a firefighter. You have never crawled down a hallway to face a fire. You have never used a hoseline, let alone any type of nozzle in actual real world fire combat.
    I'd agreed with that when it first started posting. but seeing it's posts after a while, I'd have to agree with Ken and Bull.... this poster knows way too much. I wouldn't hesitate to guess it's someone on the job with a lil bit of a twisted sense of humor (of course we've never seen that lol).

    and Fyred, the 2 inch line seems to be catching on btw. not a whole lot I don't like about it. very good thread, would be nice to see it live on.

  8. #133
    Forum Member
    L-Webb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    517

    Default

    Hey rook, ever held onto a 1.75 flowing over 250gpm? Ever use a 2.5 flowing over 400 gpm? Ever fogged a room and contents to see the beauty of how well proper use of a fog nozzle can be? nah
    Bring enough hose.

  9. #134
    Forum Member
    Rescue101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Bridgton,Me USA
    Posts
    8,162

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nbfcfireman View Post
    Dont agree with thing. dont car what you use but a sawsall, sawzall will put fine particulate glass into the air. Dont want to be breathing that. Personally I like a windshield hand saw.
    WON'T if you use the RIGHT blade. Makes no more dust than a glassmaster.

  10. #135
    Forum Member
    Rescue101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Bridgton,Me USA
    Posts
    8,162

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NDeMarse View Post
    Nice thread Vinnie. This should be good!

    I can go on all day on stuff like this!

    - When operating any line as a nozzle FF keep the nozzle out in front of you at least 3 feet. It should be just in reach so you can operate the bale of the nozzle. This makes it easier to operate the line. It is easier to bend the nozzle around a corner to hit fire or if there is fire over your head you don't have to do a triple lindy backflip to hit it. Just point and aim and it goes out.

    - Do yourself and your company a favor and saw off the pistol grip so you don't get stuck with the nozzle in your chest and unable to operate it without wrestling the line and overworking yourself.

    - When adding a length to a short-stretch or preconnect (remember preconnects can't hit everything) ALWAYS add it from the supply (engine or stand-pipe) side. It is much faster and easier to add it when done this way. It is usually the Engine Chauffeur that is adding it anyway, and that is his position.

    - ALWAYS FLUSH THE HYDRANT OR STAND-PIPE. THIS ISN'T A TIP, IT'S A MUST, BUT YET FFs STILL DON'T DO IT! Why hook up if you don't know if it is going to work?

    - If operating with no backup FF. Situate yourself on a wall before you open the line. Let the nozzle reaction be absorbed by the wall.

    - If operating with no backup FF. Put a knee on the hose line about 5 feet back from the nozzle before you open the nozzle. The nozzle reaction should be transmitted to the floor.

    - When washing down. Whoever is overhaulling, have them pull ALL of the ceilings and ALL of the walls that need to be pulled. Then have them LEAVE the room. Move to one corner of the room and operate the line soaking all of the area that needs to be covered. Shut down the line, and move to the opposite corner and do the same thing. Move on to the next room and do the same until overhaul is complete. This doesn't allow any part of the opened up area to not be touched by water.

    - In hallways, to avoid cluttering make large loops of hose on the wall (about 5'-6' high) right outside the fire apartment on the opposite wall. Gravity will allow the hose to feed to the nozzle team. When the loops start to go away, feed more hose to the loop or make another one.

    - If you are operating with a solid stream (smooth-bore) line and need to perform hydraulic ventilation. Spin off the outside tip (AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET), move to a window and crack the nozzle 1/2 way. It is not as effecient as a fog nozzle for hydraulic ventilation but it works great. You can also leave the tip on and crack the nozzle 1/2 way and that works too. I personally don't like fog nozzles for interior fire attack, and most advocates of fog nozzles use the "well I can't vent with a solid stream nozzle!" Throw this at them and see what they say. Like I said, it takes a little longer, but we are in a slow-down situation at that point. There is no need to "hurry up and get the smoke out of here" once you have it knocked down.

    - If operating as the back-up FF. Get right on the nozzle FFs back. There should be NO space between you and the nozzle FF. When the line is open there should be constant pressure on the nozzle FF so that the only thing that they are doing is pointing the stream. I have seen a backup FF up to 5' behind the nozzle FF. You are doing no good to anyone there. The back-up FF should also be giving the nozzle FF positive encouragement. Phrases like "keep going", "good job", "keep moving in" do A TON for a new or even the experienced firefighter in a fire. Remember, you are there to back them up physically and mentally!

    I'll throw more down later!
    Well,not that I spend much time on the knob anymore but the LAST place I want my B'up "guy" is tucked up my butt. Give me 3 or 4' so I can move the hose around easier. We use pistol grips,have for years but that DOESN'T mean the PG ALWAYS has to be in your hands. You can hold the hose back 2-3' behind the PG and use it the same as a conventional nozzle. Be FAMILIAR with YOUR tools and the best way to use them. T.C.

  11. #136
    Forum Member
    FyredUp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Rural Wisconsin, Retired from the burbs of Milwaukee
    Posts
    10,106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NDeMarse View Post
    Nice thread Vinnie. This should be good!

    I can go on all day on stuff like this!

    - When operating any line as a nozzle FF keep the nozzle out in front of you at least 3 feet. It should be just in reach so you can operate the bale of the nozzle. This makes it easier to operate the line. It is easier to bend the nozzle around a corner to hit fire or if there is fire over your head you don't have to do a triple lindy backflip to hit it. Just point and aim and it goes out.

    I totally agree with keeping it out in front of you. 3 feet? If that's what works for you, GROOVY!

    - Do yourself and your company a favor and saw off the pistol grip so you don't get stuck with the nozzle in your chest and unable to operate it without wrestling the line and overworking yourself.

    IF you get the nozzle stuck in your chest the issue isn't the pistol grip, it is either **** poor training or laziness on the nozzle operator's part. Blaming the pistol grip for the bad technique of the nozzle operator is simply ludicrous. I teach firefighters to extend the hoseline in front of them whether they are using a pistol grip nozzle or not. It is very bad technique and a losing battle if you let the nozzle get to close to your body. Both dpeartments I am on utilize pistol grip nozzles and depending on the tactic being used it is not unusual to see the nozzle operator holding the hose back from the nozzle and not the pistol grip.
    - When adding a length to a short-stretch or preconnect (remember preconnects can't hit everything) ALWAYS add it from the supply (engine or stand-pipe) side. It is much faster and easier to add it when done this way. It is usually the Engine Chauffeur that is adding it anyway, and that is his position.

    - If operating with no backup FF. Put a knee on the hose line about 5 feet back from the nozzle before you open the nozzle. The nozzle reaction should be transmitted to the floor.

    I teach this method. I like it because it allows for rapid forwward movement simply by gating the nozzle a bit and sliding your knee off the hose.

    - If you are operating with a solid stream (smooth-bore) line and need to perform hydraulic ventilation. Spin off the outside tip (AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET), move to a window and crack the nozzle 1/2 way. It is not as effecient as a fog nozzle for hydraulic ventilation but it works great. You can also leave the tip on and crack the nozzle 1/2 way and that works too. I personally don't like fog nozzles for interior fire attack, and most advocates of fog nozzles use the "well I can't vent with a solid stream nozzle!" Throw this at them and see what they say. Like I said, it takes a little longer, but we are in a slow-down situation at that point. There is no need to "hurry up and get the smoke out of here" once you have it knocked down.

    Sure it works. But if I use a low pressure combo nozzle I can make a stream almost equivalent to a smoothbore AND use a fog pattern for ventilation. Would that work for the FDNY? Probably not in your buildings with debris and rust in your standpipes. We don't have that problem so for us it works just fine.

    By the way, I like smoothbore nozzles too but they are not the answer to everything for everyone.


    - If operating as the back-up FF. Get right on the nozzle FFs back. There should be NO space between you and the nozzle FF. When the line is open there should be constant pressure on the nozzle FF so that the only thing that they are doing is pointing the stream. I have seen a backup FF up to 5' behind the nozzle FF. You are doing no good to anyone there. The back-up FF should also be giving the nozzle FF positive encouragement. Phrases like "keep going", "good job", "keep moving in" do A TON for a new or even the experienced firefighter in a fire. Remember, you are there to back them up physically and mentally!

    Sorry I disagree, if the back up firefighter is doing his job and taking the back pressure there is no need for them to be pushing on the back of the nozzle operator. I have told more than one back up man to get off my *** and give me room to work. Be close when I open the nozzle, but don't be pushing on me, push the hose.

    I'll throw more down later!
    Yeah, yeah, I know this is an old topic.
    Crazy, but that's how it goes
    Millions of people living as foes
    Maybe it's not too late
    To learn how to love, and forget how to hate

  12. #137
    Forum Member
    FyredUp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Rural Wisconsin, Retired from the burbs of Milwaukee
    Posts
    10,106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cdemarse View Post
    And a smooth bore definitely helps too
    Why? Nozzle pressure? Would it be different if the same flow came from a 50 psi combo nozzle?
    Crazy, but that's how it goes
    Millions of people living as foes
    Maybe it's not too late
    To learn how to love, and forget how to hate

  13. #138
    Forum Member
    yjbrody's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    700

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tny1771 View Post
    very good thread, would be nice to see it live on.
    totally agree! This single thread has more useful information in it than 90% of the crap posted lately. Tons of good tips for those of us that haven't been around in the fire service very long.

    Even if some disagree with the tips, it's just nice to have options on the fireground. Some of the ways that a pickhead could be used mentioned at the begining of the thread, I'd never heard before. Does that mean that I'm gonna use them? Not necessarily, but I like keeping them somewhere in the ol' noodle in case they might prove useful someday.

    I'd be a shame if it turned into a "your way's stupid" thread.

  14. #139
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    KENTUCKY
    Posts
    410

    Default

    While there is great information in this thread, I find it more interesting to see how the posters interacted with each other. Not nearly of a confrontational tone between posters as is common now. This must have been the "good old days" you always hear about.

  15. #140
    MembersZone Subscriber

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Cool TIC Use

    Use the TIC to tell the fluid levels in a container (for you HazMat Fellas)... Different levels and different fluids absorb more or less heat.

    Use your TIC to tell when Interior Conditions are changing; most TICs switch the way they are operating (can't think of the technical name here) at approximately 350 degree F. If you're scanning and don't see it stall then chances are it's less than that. If you're scanning and notice the screen stops and then looks a bit different then it's changed how it's sending the information and is probably over 350 degrees at your level.

    I saw this on another site... If there is no pillar or something solid in the front of the residence and you need a Search Line, use your Halligan and pound it into the ground using the forked ends.

    Use the Halligan on the roof to give you a foot-hold when it's needed to step off the roof ladder on a pitched roof.

    Remember, when using a tool (axe, halligan, pike pole, etc) to improve your reach think about what you are sticking out there and send the handle out. The exception would be the Halligan, send the forked-end out.

    Definitely some good stuff here.....
    "Be LOUD, Be PROUD..... It just might save your can someday when goin' through an intersection!!!!!"

    Life on the Truck (Quint) is good.....

    Eat til you're sleepy..... Sleep til you're hungry..... And repeat.....

  16. #141
    MembersZone Subscriber

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Cool Another Trick...

    When cutting a commercial garage door (aluminum sheeted or slats) make (3) cuts. The 1st cut goes vertical (high to low), 2nd cut is a small triangle cut at the bottom of the vertical cut (allows you to cut the bottom rail of the vertical cut) and the 3rd cut goes at shoulder height horizontally. Takes as much time as a "Tee-pee Cut" and opens the door all the way open.

    Use the Halligan or the Pick-Headed Axe to make entry into a sectional residential garage door. Make a hole and then grab the line that disconnects the door from the lifter. I recommend the Halligan since the pick can be used and the adze end makes the hole bigger and then grab the line with the forked end and twist the tool. The line will catch between the forks and pull, releasin the door.
    "Be LOUD, Be PROUD..... It just might save your can someday when goin' through an intersection!!!!!"

    Life on the Truck (Quint) is good.....

    Eat til you're sleepy..... Sleep til you're hungry..... And repeat.....

  17. #142
    MembersZone Subscriber

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Default

    For those of us that drive or respond to extreme differences in elevations; chew gum while driving or riding. Not quite sure how it works, but it does. Works well for flying in aircraft also.
    "Be LOUD, Be PROUD..... It just might save your can someday when goin' through an intersection!!!!!"

    Life on the Truck (Quint) is good.....

    Eat til you're sleepy..... Sleep til you're hungry..... And repeat.....

  18. #143
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Poconos, Pa
    Posts
    796

    Default

    Bump.......

  19. #144
    Forum Member
    TillamanTrk1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Metro-Atlanta
    Posts
    113

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erics99 View Post
    Good tips Vinnie. Gotta love them women firefighters . Anyway, got any tips for the good ol Halligan? My tool of choice, great for overhualing and obviously forcible entry. For lath and plaster walls I like to drive the pike into the wall, tilt up, and pull the lath and plaster off the studs when intitially opening up.

    As for 2 1/2s, if only two guys available, have the second guy pin the line to the ground if static, beats having the 2nd guy holding the line and trying to put his weight into it.

    When advancing a line, don't get yourself between the turn and the hoseline.
    A haligan good for over-haul?......I would rather use a commercial water key over a haligan. A haligan belongs married to a flat head for forcible entry. Thats it. Thats just my personal pref.
    "....train as if your life depends on it, because one day it could.."
    .....Leather Head N6A
    Tillerman..... The best job in the FD!!!

  20. #145
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2,035

    Default

    try using a cip saw for garage doors, make the "L" cut and shove a halligan under the bottom to give you enough space to finish the last of the cut. Try it sometime, it has worked well for me.
    ?

  21. #146
    Forum Member

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2,035

    Default

    Oh and make you a starting point with the pike of the halligan wallowed out.
    ?

  22. #147
    MembersZone Subscriber

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Regarding the fine particulate glass in the air topic that was brought-up, I've seen FDs that use shaving cream to stop this from occurring. How they've done it is, spray the cream and then use a reciprocating saw to cut the windshield. It seems to work for them.

    If I'm gonna work on a 2 1/2" for awhile, I'll "Q" it up (exposure loop) and sit on it with my legs crossed and place the hose line on the side hard rubber of my boots. It's never failed me, and requires no additional equipment. For lateral movement I'll attach a 1" tubular webbing to the hose using a larks foot and then take the large loop and put it around me. To raise all I have to do is lean back.
    "Be LOUD, Be PROUD..... It just might save your can someday when goin' through an intersection!!!!!"

    Life on the Truck (Quint) is good.....

    Eat til you're sleepy..... Sleep til you're hungry..... And repeat.....

  23. #148
    MembersZone Subscriber

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Cool

    Residential garage doors.....

    To open a residential garage door, make a hole with the point of the halligan, make the hole bigger by using the adze end and then still the forked in inside and slide it over the manual release for the door. Twist the halligan and it frees the door from the garage door opener's lifting mechanism.
    "Be LOUD, Be PROUD..... It just might save your can someday when goin' through an intersection!!!!!"

    Life on the Truck (Quint) is good.....

    Eat til you're sleepy..... Sleep til you're hungry..... And repeat.....

  24. #149
    MembersZone Subscriber

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Door chocks...

    The next time you cut a lock, keep it. I have one that I keep in my turnout jacket and have used it numerous times to keep a door open. It works a couple of ways: 1) Turn the metal locking part that you cut and slide it over the hinges, turn the lock flat and the door will only close as thick as the lock is 2) For metal doors, flip the metal locking part (hooked part) over the top of the door and either the hooked part or the lock itself will come in contact with the jamb and hold the door.

    Another use for a cut lock is to use it similar to how the golf balls have been used here. Only, don't throw them as hard and make sure the Guys on the interior know what's happening. Works on auto side glass as well. I swing the lock by the locking part and hit the window in the corner, it's been pretty successful for me.

    I was gonna post how to use the lock as a "fist pack" for those ETOH folks that insist on a fight, but I don't work in that type of district anymore. LOL.
    "Be LOUD, Be PROUD..... It just might save your can someday when goin' through an intersection!!!!!"

    Life on the Truck (Quint) is good.....

    Eat til you're sleepy..... Sleep til you're hungry..... And repeat.....

  25. #150
    Forum Member
    yjbrody's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    700

    Default

    Bump...

    I've always liked this thread, so it's time to bring it back for another round of tips.
    Nothing is as unimpressive as someone who is unwilling to learn.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 6 of 6 First ... 3456

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. World Of Fire Report: 09-11-01 Remembered
    By PaulBrown in forum World of Fire Daily Report
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-11-2003, 01:14 AM
  2. World Of Fire Report: 09-11-01 Remembered
    By PaulBrown in forum World of Fire Daily Report
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-11-2002, 07:23 AM
  3. Tricks of the Trade
    By leatha4eva in forum Firefighters Forum
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 03-07-2002, 10:56 PM
  4. Tricks of the Trade
    By 51Truck_K in forum Firefighters Forum
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-07-2001, 06:23 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts

Log in

Click here to log in or register