We have a wet-sided engine that has developed a hole in the tank (which means a hole in the side of the engine).The hole is from oxidation. We have opened the engine up and are able to access the inside of the tank. We are looking for suggestions from anyone who may have had a similar problem to see how it could be fixed, or how it should not be fixed.
The idea we are leaning toward is to have plates welded over the hole and any weak spots. Then to have the tank sandblasted and lined with something like a "Rhino" lining. We have heard of another department doing it twice; once it worked, once it didn't.
Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chrissy
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03-03-2006, 08:56 PM #1Forum Member
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Wet-sided engine w/ a hole in the tank... any ideas??
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03-03-2006, 10:16 PM #2
An experienced welder with ample time and materials can fix it, but if you have enough rust to create holes in the exterior tank walls, how bad are the baffles? Are they in good enough condition to stay in service and still be effective? As for the rhino lining... a department here tried that in a surplus tanker and had no success, actually caused more pump problems, but if it works for you, go for it.
Service is the rent you pay for having space on earth.
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03-04-2006, 07:10 AM #3
Go with poly.
Robert Kramer
cell #901-494-9437
Management is making sure things are done right. Leadership is doing the right thing. The fire service needs alot more leaders and a lot less managers.
"Everyone goes home" is the mantra for the pussification of the modern, American fire service.
Comments made are my own. They do not represent the official position or opinion of the Fire Department or the City for which I am employed. In fact, they are normally exactly the opposite.
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03-04-2006, 08:01 AM #4MembersZone Subscriber
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The tank has to be pulled, sandblasted, then repaired, Pierce has a coating that they use for the interior of the tank to help with rust.
A poly would be nice but it is expensive and you will loose some water capacity.
An older rig, 1980's tanks would last about 5 years now with the coating it will get you several more. remember any scratch in the tank will be where it will rust.
If the tank isn't 100% it will rust where it is damaged
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03-04-2006, 08:42 AM #5Forum Member
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A VFD I was with at one time had a large 2,000 gallon steel tank water tender. There was about 6 or 8 diodes that were placed through the top of the tank. These diodes collected the oxidation and preserved the tank for future years. They are replaceable.
Appears to have worked for them!
*MarkFTM-PTB-RFB-EGH
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03-04-2006, 09:09 AM #6Forum Member
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A poly would be nice but it is expensive and you will loose some water capacity.
???
Do they take that much room? We refurbed a '78 Engine-Tank in '96 to extend it's life by another few years (donated it to a Katrina department this fall). Similiar situation, tank had failed. Dropped in a poly, kept the capacity the same (1200 gallons). Dry side, so it had to fit the existing space.
I guess I can see a poly tank have a *very* slight less capacity in a given space, I've just never seen that really being expressed as a concern before!
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03-04-2006, 08:30 PM #7
Diode? How about Anode Rod? (Diode is electrical)
Originally Posted by mark440
Service is the rent you pay for having space on earth.
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The hole is from oxidation. We have opened the engine up and are able to access the inside of the tank. We are looking for suggestions from anyone who may have had a similar problem to see how it could be fixed, or how it should not be fixed. 



