Looking for info on locating, and changing out anodes on an 83’ Hahn Engine with a 1500 GPM Hale pump, 750 gallon (presumably steel) tank.
Specifically, interested in tank protection, should I be looking for separate anodes for tank versus pump protection? Or should I expect an anode protected pump to also protect the tank?
Would appreciate direction to a source of info (can not locate the tech manual for this truck), or personnel experience.
Thanks,
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Thread: changing out anodes
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04-03-2006, 09:37 AM #1MembersZone Subscriber
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changing out anodes
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04-03-2006, 02:36 PM #2Forum Member
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anodes
I cannot speak from experience with a Hahn due to the fact they got rid of them here before I started but I would think that the anodes would be in the top of the tank and may be difficult to remove at this stage. It should look like a 1and1/8th plug or about that size. As far as the pump goes I am not sure if Hale arbitrarily installed anodes or they had to be asked for. Usually the zinc main intake screens serve as an anode and actual pump anodes are optional. and would be installed on the top half of the pump assy. again looking like a plug. Usually the decking over the tank is removed to access the tank anodes. Good luck and you may be in a situation of having to use a little heat froma torch and some rust penetrant to free up the threads on the tank anodes.Just be careful and keep it safe.
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04-06-2006, 07:48 PM #3MembersZone Subscriber
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useful information
Thanks lvwrench,
That’s useful information, I’ll let you know how we made out.
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04-19-2006, 11:14 AM #4Forum Member
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On older trucks...steel tanks were the anode. Pumps were somewhat protected. With todays use of poly tanks...the pump becomes the anode. Which is why its smart to opt for the Hale anode system for the pump.
I just installed them on our brand new pumper. Our second newest pumper (2000 KME Excel) was speced with the anodes installed.
Since I was in need of replacing the KME's anyway...I decided to order them for the new Ferrara and just do it myself.
They make a ton of difference. On our E-One we just sold...we didn't use them in our QSF1250 Hale. Our Southpark aluminum butterfly valve became the anode...even with the tank being galvanized steel. The valve was totally destroyed in 5 years and un-usable.
So I saved a couple hundred in anodes by destroying a $750 valve. Get the pump anodes and the tank anodes. Its cheap insurance.
Especially when you consider a pump can become the anode on newer trucks.
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04-19-2006, 10:15 PM #5MembersZone Subscriber
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I've actually haven't tried it yet, but when I attended a Hale pump class they told us to drill a 1/16" hole through the brass on the anodes. That way, when the anode is ate away and needs replaced, a water drip will let you know. Anyone tried this?
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04-20-2006, 09:59 AM #6Forum Member
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I retrofitted a bunch of anodes last year. They were all the Waterous type though that can't be drilled like that, different construction type. Much more massive than Hale's though, I think they are better. Anyway what I did is to install them inside discharges and intakes where by removing a cap and/or opening a valve they can be visually inspected.
Birken
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